Ok, so I lied. Technically, I haven't been to Pago Pago. I'm staying in the village of Tafuna, close to the airport for Pago. The hotel, The Tradewinds, is fabulous. Air conditioning, a sofa, hot water, a bathtub. Yeah, there's a pool and restaurant too, but I didn't leave my plush room much.
The other two things I found in Tafuna were stores. One Cost You Less is very much like walking into a Sam's Club. A couple of times I realized my mouth was hanging open as I stared at aisle after aisle of stuff I'd been dreaming of.
It was a bittersweet experience, though. They had meat here. Lots of steaks, hamburger, ribs, etc. But I had no place to cook it. Likewise, there were vegetables, but they sell only in bulk, so what would I do with a truckload of veggies? Same with cream cheese, regular cheese, etc., etc.
I hit the candy aisle hard, though. I'm taking back over ten pounds of chocolates for the teachers and others in the village. I wish my budget and my luggage would have allowed me to buy more.
It was amazing to see on display all the treasures that I've gotten so excited about every time I open a box from friends at home. I splurged on a giant box of granola bars and a huge container of Swiss Miss. Breakfasts in the coming months will be stellar.
The other store I found in Tafuna, within walking distance of the hotel was KS Store. Larger, cheaper and better stocked than any store in Savaii. On a par with Farmer Joes. As I was leaving, I commented to a woman working there what a great store it is. She explained she was the owner and thanked me. We chatted for awhile about doing business in American Samoa vs. Samoa and why she chose to leave her home in Samoa to run a business in AS. Good insights into why there's such a huge difference in goods between the two countries. As I was leaving, she tossed several small bags of candy into my bags. A generous gesture.
I also found a small cafe in Tafuna. Got a cheeseburger that came with a mound of thick onion rings, $6.95 and delicious. I also got a side salad. That was my second salad, since I had a large salad from the grocery store the night before. I was planning on MacDonalds and KFC but they both involved cab fare. I've really missed salads, so it was great to get them so close to my hotel.
Some differences between Pago (or Tafuna, since I never made it downtown to Pago) and Samoa...
There are bus stops, rather than just flagging a bus down anywhere, although you can do that, too. The busses are smaller, but still have the same wooden seats and lots of people.
People seem friendlier. My theory is that people here are more confident with speaking English and so are more comfortable initiating a conversation. People here have been very friendly, often approaching me to chat. The cab driver who took me and my box of goodies back to the hotel drove past me yesterday and honked and waved.
There are American amenities. Lots of fast food options, both American chains and options for buying Samoan staples (palusami, taro) at small stores. In my village I can buy an egg salad sandwich if I get there at the right time of the morning, but other than the resort, that's the only option for buying food. Having said that, comparing a Savvian village to the capital of AS isn't really fair. I'd love to visit a village here to see how similar, or not, it is.
People love Savaii. At least 15 people have asked me where I'm from since I got here two days ago. That's more people than spoke to me during my first month in Savaii, by the way. They smile when I say the United States and then when I go on to explain that I'm now living in Savaii, they beam. Most people I've spoken with are from Samoa. The ones who aren't, have family there. Most came here for work and miss home, it seems.
I've taken photos and will post them, along with all the other photos I've been stockpiling once I get home and access to high speed internet. Hopefully, next Saturday.
I'll be happy to be home in Savaii. But I'll miss it here. It has a Samoan vibe, but American stuff. A great combination.
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