Mandalay in August

I've only been home in Mandalay for 2 1/2 weeks but it feels as if I never left.  School has started again, I'm back in my normal routine and life is good.

Last week, I took one of the new teachers with me to Mingalar for some produce shopping.  It was raining when we walked in to the covered market.  When we walked out, water was knee deep in the street.

This is just typical rain during the rainy season.  It is NOTHING compared to the devastating flooding in most other parts of the country.  Within hours, this water had, for the most part, gone away. 

On 35th street, one of the main streets in Mandalay.  Streets went from dry to flooded in about 30 minutes.

Another view from my taxi.

I love being back to the Myanmar prices.  The dollar is currently strong against the Kyat.  Yesterday I exchanged $200 and got 250,000 K.  Before I left for summer vacation the exchange was around $200 = 198,000 K.

Prices in shops, markets and restaurants have gone up a bit to compensate but at places like Style Star (my favorite hair/nail salon), the prices remain the same.  Yesterday I got a manicure/pedicure; leg and foot scrub/massage; shampoo and massage - all for 8,500K.  Less than $8.

There are a lot of new restaurants.  Mostly, more of the same.  Lots of local/Chinese barbecue, which I love.  There's a new Japanese barbecue place which I was excited about but heard they charge in dollars, have already increased prices and food averages $15 for a mediocre dinner.  The molten chocolate cake at Gossip restaurant for less than $3 remains a tasty bargain.

At Citimart grocery store I spent 50,000 K, which is a lot, but that included cheese, butter, mustard, canned peaches, 7-Up, pepperoni and more - all imported.

Last weekend I arranged for the school bus to take a group of new teachers furniture shopping.  It was fun.  Five new teachers bought cabinets like the one I have in my apartment.  It may have been the best day ever for those furniture sellers.  They were high fiving each other as we left.

Rustic, decorative and functional.  About $22, delivered.

Today I'm enjoying a cloudy day at home.  Prepping all the fruits and veg I bought at the market yesterday for the week.  I'll be enjoying banana ice cream, pineapple and mango smoothies and homemade chicken vegetable soup.   Life is good in Mandalay!

Lived Through the First Week of School, But it Left a Mark

Orientation week was rough.  Too many meetings, not enough time to work with my new Assistant Teacher, Susie, to get our room/materials ready.  Ready or not, the kids arrived on August 10, 2015.

They're cute, smart, funny and energetic.  We spent the first week getting to know each other and practicing our routine and procedures.  Most now know that in the morning when they arrive, they put away everything from their backpacks, get out a slate to write "Today I feel...........because........" and then get their morning work sheet and get busy.

I write those directions on the board and they can read them!  Last year, nope.  Huge step ahead.  Thanks to our AIS kindergarten/Montessori teachers!

In addition to teaching a new group of first graders, I'm also leading our AIS Myanmar Flood Response effort.  I feel so lucky to have been so readily accepted in Myanmar - only seems right that I do whatever I can to help in the recovery from the devastating floods.

I'm also leading a WASC team.  We're working hard to get international certification.  It means that parents can be assured that the education their children get at AIS is comparable to what they would get in the United States.  It also means, if you graduate from AIS high school, you can get into an American university.  A huge step for the school, but involves a big time commitment.

On Wednesday morning I was up early.  Took a shower, put on makeup and was thinking about some things I wanted to add to the flood relief project plan I'd created the night before.  My bathroom has an "all room" shower.  There's no separate shower area so the water covers the bathroom floor.

As I took the two steps from in front of the bathroom sink to step out of the bathroom, I slipped on the wet floor.  I tried to grab the door jamb to catch myself but that didn't work.  Instead I crashed to the floor, face first.

I was freaked out - there was a lot of blood and I was afraid to fall again if I tried to stand up since the floor was still wet with water and now blood.  Instead I started yelling for help.  Within seconds my wonderful neighbors (all co-workers) came running.  They got the spare key to my apartment from Aye Aye Than and one of the women ran in to help.  I had grabbed a towel so she doesn't need PTSD counseling.

She tossed me clothes then helped me up.  I was still gushing blood so used a towel and tissues to staunch the flow as I finished dressing.  By then, the school had roused a driver (it was 6 a.m. by then) and I was whisked off to the hospital, with Aye Aye Than at my side to provide moral support and translate.

I was sure my nose was broken but xrays of my face and wrist showed that nothing was broken.  I got a bandaid on the gash on my nose, cotton stuffed in my nostrils to try to stop the bleeding and was back on my way to school.

The kids were a bit freaked out about how I looked but got over it after I explained that it was just like when they fell and scraped a knee - I just did it to my face.

How I look 4 days later.  I'll look better after I get my hair done this morning!  I am a bit disappointed I didn't get to go to Bangkok for a broken nose.  I was hoping to sneak in an eye lift...

Now, on Saturday morning, my face looks remarkably better.  Black eye, bruised cheek and chin and cut on my nose but swelling is better.  I have a Kardashian upper lip, with an impressive bruise on the inside of my lip.  That's actually the most annoying thing now.  I can't whistle but make interesting noises occasionally when talking and my swollen lip starts flapping.

Last year I slipped on the wet floor outside my apartment door and tore ligaments in my left wrist.  Now this.  And after school yesterday as I was coming back to my apartment I slipped but caught myself when I hit a wet patch of tile.  They guy with me did the same.  We were ok but 30 minutes later another teacher came to my door.  He slipped but couldn't catch himself and scrapped his arm to the point of bleeding.

Asia loves smooth shiny tile.  Lovely to look at, treacherous to walk on!

One last note - the morning I fell, when the kids wrote how they felt on their slates I was touched to read what one boy had written:  "I'm angry because Tr. Nancy hurts." 

Beware - nasty photos below...

What looks like blood on my mouth is actually my bruised, swollen upper lip.

My bathroom was a mess.

Back Home in Mandalay

This is going to be a quick update.  It's 4:57 a.m. on Tuesday, August 4, 2015.  My body is still trying to adjust to an 11 1/2 hour time change (and I used to complain about DST!) and arriving with a nasty cold.  I'm getting there but still dozing off at 8:00 p.m. and waking up too early.

Instead of lying in bed thinking about all I have to do before the littles arrive for the first day of school next Monday, I decided to get up and moving.  But first, a quick update.

School staff were waiting at the airport and as usual, immigration was no problem.  Driving through Mandalay to the school felt both so familiar and different.  Dusty, scruffy, crowded and so different from Lake Mary, a planned community with manicured road medians, gated communities and homeowner associations who rule with iron fists.

My apartment had been cleaned and reorganized a bit.  It took me less than an hour to unpack and get things sorted out.  That was Thursday.  Friday I woke up early and went to school to check on my classroom.  Oh, so much to be done and I was feeling puny and tired.  I went to the market and grocery store to stock my fridge then gave in to the cold and spent Sat. and Sunday in bed, feeling pathetic and sorry for myself.

Sunday I ventured out to buy a new kitchen cabinet which is perfect.  $25, which included free delivery.  Yes, this 4 1/2 foot tall cabinet was delivered by a guy on a motorbike.  Then carried up 3 flights of stairs with the help of one of the school staff.  No tip expected.  (I'll add a photo later, when technology cuts me a break.)

Yesterday was my first day of work.  Orientation, getting to know my new assistant teacher, Susie, and organizing the chaos in my classroom.  So much to do - decorating, organizing, lesson plans, assessment materials, etc, etc, etc.  If you're a teacher you know.  And since we have orientation meetings most of the week the work needs to be done around the meetings.  Happily, we had most of Monday afternoon free to get started.

Lots of new teachers have joined the staff.  We have a total of 70 foreign teachers.  Over 300 local teachers.  Almost 800 students.  We'll be undergoing the WASC accreditation visit/assessment this winter.  It's going to be an interesting year.

The new teachers seem enthusiastic and energetic.  Apparently jet leg doesn't impact 22 year olds as much as those of us who are a bit older.  The vast majority of new teachers are fresh out of university and many have had either limited or no experience in living abroad.  So far, though, they're taking it in stride.  Like last year, some made decorated name tags for outside our apartments.  Handy for those of us creeping up on our golden years in case we (ok, I) forget my name as I walk out my door.

I need to hop in the shower now and get moving.  I plan to get in very early and make some real progress before meetings start at 9:00 a.m.  Please send me positive energy so I don't doze off while leading my WASC committee meeting this afternoon.

Mandalay vs. Lake Mary

I'm about mid-way through my summer vacation.  I've loved being back in my Lake Mary, FL home.  I miss my Mandalay, Myanmar home.

I've been quite the social butterfly since arriving home - lots of time with friends and family, catching up.  It has been wonderful.  The most common question I've gotten is "What's the best thing about being home?"

My nephew and his youngest son.

Clearly, the number one thing is being with the people I love.  It's wonderful to catch up and find out what's new and the joys and dreams of the people I care most about.  I enjoy the people I work and live with in Mandalay but we don't have the history.  And, we don't have a similar life path which leads us to similar experiences and views.  But they're right there, willing to play cards and listen to me bitch about school and they totally get it because they're dealing with the siblings of my kids.

I'm also loving the freedom that comes with a car.  I'm paying a fortune for a rental car and insurance for 6 weeks.  It is worth every penny.  The freedom of being able to go where I want, when I want, in comfort is fabulous.  If I want to get up at 3 a.m. in the morning and drive to the beach with no prior planning, I can do it.  Radio blasting.   Being able to pull into my garage during a huge thunderstorm and then carrying groceries just a few feet into my kitchen.  But  I don't have the company of my sweet young driver and his willingness to carry my groceries up 3 flights and admire the view from my apartment.

The food.  You just have to look at me to know I appreciate a good meal.  I'd forgotten the myriad of choices available in America.  Right now I have artichokes steaming on the stove.  I had some lobster bisque for breakfast (don't judge!).  Restaurants, huge choices in the grocery store, there is no food that I crave that I don't have access to.  But I can't get a delicious and huge meal for less than $3.00 in Lake Mary.

Fried shrimp and oysters on the coast.

Mexican food.  Real Mexican food. 

I love being in my home.  I bought this house in 1994.  My brother helped me move in and get settled.  It has a lot of memories.  I have a small, private pool, a convenient gas grill (that's getting quite a workout) and my own stuff around me.  But I don't have a view of pagodas or water buffaloes or rice paddies.

I love not working.  The luxury of no alarm clock. Waking up and then just luxuriating lounging a bit in bed.  No rush to shower and head to school.  But I miss my kids smiles and hugs.  One of my kids who tried to crawl inside my skin every morning when he arrived at school.  Their excitement in telling me what had happened since they'd seen me the day before.

I'm so lucky to be home.  And I'm so lucky to be going home at the end of the month.

Where is Home?

Three weeks ago I arrived home, in Florida.  From the hugs at the airport to cruising down the road with music blaring, it's been great to be here. 

Not long after I got back I was shopping with a good friend and pointed at something and said "I wish I could take that home."  She said "You can, it will fit in the car."  But I meant my Myanmar home.

This month, I'll be heading back home for my third year in Mandalay.  Until then, I plan to enjoy my Florida home - friends, enchiladas, beach and more.  I'm lucky to have two places that feel like home.

I'll miss my comfy couch when I'm back in Mandalay.

New Taste at the Market

Typical Saturday at the market.  It was hot today, over 100 degrees and over 50% humidity.  So I felt fresh for about 30 seconds after I left my air conditioned apartment.

I'm leaving for home in Florida in 9 days so I didn't want to buy too much at the market.  But, it is mango season and I need to eat for 9 days.  I bought a couple of potatoes, some corn and several tomatoes.  I also was looking over the wares of one of the ladies near the entrance to the market.  She held up a baggie filled with something.  We share no language.  But I raised my upraised palms, as in "what is it?"  She opened the bag and offered a piece to me.  I took it, of course.  It was soft, a bit gelatinous and tasted like banana, pineapple and a bit of fried chicken.  It was jackfruit.  I've seen them often.  They are huge and hard to ignore.  But I've never tried it.  On the outside, jackfruit looks very much like durian.  Durian isn't horrible but it's not a favorite of mine.

After tasting the jackfruit, I paid $.50 for a baggie full.

Later, in my apartment, a couple of friends stopped by.  They are experienced travelers.  I offered them a taste of my new jackfruit.  One refused outright, based on smell.  The other tried one bite and said he was done.

After having it in the fridge, I like it even better.  It's sort of like a banana pineapple custard with a side of fried chicken.  I'll buy it again, although it is expensive, compared to the rest of the fruit in season.

Another Example of Why I Love Myanmar

Today was typical "chore day".  Not that I have a routine, but my driver knows without me saying anything where I want to go.

First, Mingalar market for produce.  All I wanted was corn, mangoes and cooked garbanzo beans.  When I asked the "bean lady" how much for the beans (it was $.40 for two cups) a middle-aged woman passing by stopped to translate for me.  Actually, she wasn't translating so much as making sure the "bean lady" was not cheating me.  The "translator" hadn't seen me put the first bag of beans in my basket and thought I was being overcharged.  After that she trailed me through the market to offer her assistance, in a very subtle way.  After about 15 minutes she seemed to realize that I was a market regular and the vendors were helping, not cheating, me.

As we prepared to leave the market, a group of "boy monks" who were busy collecting food and money for their daily meal came to an abrupt stop when they saw me.  I wasn't sure if it was just the way I look or if it was because they knew I'd given money to several of the other young monks.

One little guy (perhaps 7-8 years old) was lagging behind the group and was a bit surprised when they stopped short.  Then he looked up at me.  And let out the cutest "Oh!" sort of exclamation.  Seems the last thing he expected was a very large, very blonde foreign woman to be looking down at him.  The other monks laughed (the oldest was about 12).  The vendors laughed.  It was one of those moments that is hard to explain but was so sweet and cute.  Made me smile for the rest of the day.

A few stops later, I was at Ocean Center, better known as "new Ocean".  As we walked into the mall, I noticed a family taking photos of themselves by the fountain.  I thought it would be amusing to casually join their family photo.  I would NEVER do that in the U.S.  But here, people frequently ask to have their photos taken with me so what could be nicer than offering a photo opp?

As the photographers (who appeared to be daughters in their early 20's) switched places, I sat down next to the woman I assumed was their mother.  She was very surprised and immediately linked her arm in mine, scooted closer and posed with a big smile for the camera.  After a couple of photos, we all stood up and the woman put her arm around me and asked her daughter to take a photo of just the two of us.  She was easily a head shorter than me and about 100 pounds lighter.  After more photos were taken she started commenting to her kids about me.  Clearly she was commenting on my breasts and over all fat.  Yup, I'm large and squishy.   If I were younger or more sensitive, I might have taken offense.  But, she was correct - she is tiny and very, very thin.  I'm very, very not.  We shared a hug and a laugh and I moved on.

A few minutes later, I was waiting for a friend and people watching.  And being watched.  Families and kids were fascinated.  One group of 4 kids just stood off to one side and stared.  Then two kids I know from school came by.  They were casual about screaming "Teacher Nancy!" but also seemed to appreciate that they were famous with the other kids just because they knew me.  Yes, fame does rub off.

I love shopping in Mandalay.  Aside from paying $.15 for a bag of basil and $.30 for a huge bag of tomatoes, I love the people.  I'm so excited about being home in 16 days for a long vacation.  But really - what am I going to do without people getting excited just because I say "Hi!" to them?