Halong Bay

After several days relaxing in Hanoi, I moved on to Halong Bay.  I'd talked to several friends who'd been there and all said it was a highlight of their time in Vietnam.  I booked my trip on the "new" Swan Cruises.  I put "new" in quotes because while the company was new, the boat was not.  Not that it mattered - it was in good shape and very clean.

I was picked up at my hotel and joined the rest of the cruisers in a small bus.  Ironically the bus was identical to our school buses at Ayeyarwaddy International School.  We had plenty of room and the 4 hour plus trip gave us some time to get to know each other a bit.  It was an eclectic group of 3 singles, a few couples and ages ranging from early 20's to...me.  Our guide was friendly and helpful but not overbearing and didn't feel it necessary to talk the entire way to Halong.

I was looking forward to the drive to see a bit of the countryside but was a bit disappointed.  I saw very few scenes that made me want to yell "Stop the bus!" so I could take a photo.  We had one rest stop along the way for about 30 minutes.  The rest stop was a sign of what was to come.  The large store/toilet facilities were packed with others on buses to Halong Bay.

Let me say upfront that I took a lot of photographs.  None of them do justice to the sheer beauty that is Halong Bay.  The water is neither clear nor does it appear clean.  We were never in a place where we didn't have at least one (or 30) other boats in sight.  But it is amazingly beautiful.  Peaceful.  The kind of place that made me smile and feel like I could breathe a bit deeper.  Here are some of my very inadequate photos.

Before we get to the scenery of Halong Bay, check out this cup and saucer.  Notice anything different?  The cup holder is a bit offset so there's room for cookies.  Handy!

Our tour guide on the bus.

Unfortunately, that wasn't fog as we crossed the river leaving Hanoi.  It was smog.

Just a few of the other buses waiting for their tourists during our rest stop.

We took a small tender to the mother ship.  Seriously, that's what they called it.  I felt like I was about to be beamed up every time they said it.

I never even considered staying in the town where the boats dock for Halong Bay but would the next time I visit.  It's got an amusement park and they're building a very long suspended cable car route.

Once on the mother ship we were given bottles of water, cool clothes and greeted in the dining room for lunch and orientation.  There were no safety lessons.

A few of the other boats picking up passengers.  All boats are on the same schedule and go the same routes.  The only real difference is if you choose 1 night or 2 - and whether you want to spend that night on the boat or on Cat Ba island.  I chose 2 nights, both on the boat.  I was VERY happy with my choice.

We saw a number of new, modern hotels as we sailed off to Halong Bay.

My cabin on Swan Cruises.  It is considered a double.  One couple complained that it was too small but since most people only carried back packs with them I think it was fine.

The bathroom was both larger and nicer than I expected.  The shower was awesome - and had a great view of the Bay.  Of course, with all the neighboring boats, that meant everyone also had a view of you as you showered.

In case you are from a real mother ship, this is a toilet.

The water in the bathroom was fresh and had plenty of water pressure and hot water.

Beautiful views from my cabin.

The dining room was surrounded by windows.

Food on board was varied, plentiful and delicious.  One of the big differences among different tour companies is the quality of food.  The Swan was at the upper end.  They also accommodated those who didn't eat meat or seafood.

The views went on forever.

Our captain.

Just to prove I was actually there.  I was there in late October and the weather was absolutely perfect.

Another view from my cabin.  I was sitting on my bed, watching the karsts go by.

There were several opportunities for kayaking, which was included in the tour price.  Unfortunately, you had to kayak only with the group.

On the top deck there was ample seating.  Everyone gathered there at sunset and the crew provided snacks and beverages.

I don't know whose house this is but I'd like to live there.

Evening, as we pulled in to the area where all the boats anchor at night.

Hard to express how beautiful it was.

The chef put on a somewhat cheesy but fun cooking demonstration.

We found out the smoke detectors were in working order.  :)

I didn't get up for the early morning (6 a.m.) tai chi on the top deck but the view when I did get up was lovely.

Hanoi, Take Three

If you've been patiently reading my most recent posts, you may be thinking "Holy Moly, how many posts can this woman have about doing absolutely nothing in one of the most remarkable cities in SE Asia?"

Actually, quite a few.  But this one will be briefer.  Just a few more photos of what I saw as I meandered through Hanoi's Old Quarter.  And away we go...

Sidewalks would be easier to walk on if they weren't used as motorbike parking lots.

I don't know for sure but I think you have to wear tie dye and smell of patchouli to shop here.

A bit of history in the Old Quarter.

I still think Dragon Fruit is a misnaming name for a very mild fruit.  It's still beautiful, though.

I felt like I was back in Zegyo in Mandalay.

So many things to buy, so little luggage. 

Some of the baked goods vendors were a tad aggressive.  Most were women about my age.  I discovered that if I just patted my hips and shook my head sadly they just smiled and left me alone.

I'm not sure why I've been obsessed with bamboo ladders for years but I have.  I so wanted one of these.

I even considered disassembling them and packing them in a new suitcase.  Luckily I gained control of myself.

Being a flower vendor would be hard work for very little money (I saw the vendors at 4:30 a.m. peddling away from the large flower market in the pouring rain) but I have a romantic vision of me pedaling around town selling my beautiful flowers.  I also have a vision of myself being crowned Miss America.  I seem to have a somewhat limited grasp on reality.

Speaking of electric wires...

I really liked these masks but how would you choose?  The impact is from all of them.  And how creepy would it be to walk past a wall of them staring at you in the middle of the night in the dark?

Slow traffic day.  I actually took this photo for my friends Ralph and Mary Lou who went to Vietnam on a trip I'd planned and reserved and then couldn't go on.  They had a cold beer on the terrace of this restaurant across from the lake.

As I waited for my dinner at an Indian restaurant they were kind enough to bring me a newspaper.

I enjoyed the fresh orchid bloom while I waited.

The food was delicious and a nice break from Vietnamese food and doner kebabs.

I wonder if she buys her oil at Costco?  She was making batter dipped fried bananas.

Hanoi - Take Two

Vietnam is my 71st country.  That sounds a bit presumptuous, like I've been collecting them as if countries were small pieces of art to be collected and enjoyed.  It's more like the countries were magnificent pieces of art that I zipped past and barely glimpsed, sad to say.

When I first learned to SCUBA dive, a veteran diver told me that some divers want to swim as far and deep as they can, believing that is the best way to see and experience the most the sea has to offer.  He suggested that another way to do it is to find a spot on a reef and to wait patiently, watching. The life of the sea will come to you.  That's the way I like to dive.  If you are patient, and look carefully you'll see creatures and plants you would miss when swimming quickly to find the coolest thing.  That also tends to be my approach to travel.  Before you think I'm taking the high horse here, let me admit.  I enjoy comfort and moving slowly.   I'm way more of a slug than a gazelle.

I tend to take that approach when I travel.  Having worked since I hit double digits, it is an amazing luxury to be able to make my own schedule.  To enjoy doing nothing if that's what my mood dictates.  You'll see in the photos that follow not the breadth and width of Vietnam, but one small section of the Old Quarter where I wandered.  Mostly reading, eating and drinking iced coffee.  I guess the Travel Channel won't be giving me my own show anytime soon.

The beverage menu in one of the fancier restaurants where I dined.

While intrigued, I stuck with the coffee.

My table came with a great view of one of the main streets in the Old Quarter of Hanoi.

I kept seeing items whose shapes intrigued me.

Virtually all Vietnamese food comes with a variety of very fresh herbs.

This is a platter of bun cha - an iconic dish of Hanoi.  Grilled pork with "bun" or noodles.  In the center is a sweetish/spicy dipping sauce.

My waiter instructed me that to correctly eat the dish you collect a bit of each item to get a balanced taste.  It was delicious.

Topped off, of course, with more iced coffee. 

Near my hotel was a street vendor who sold these dessert balls called Bahn Cam or fried sesame balls.  They are hollow with a marble sized ball of mung bean paste in the middle.  Rich and not too sweet, they are amazing.  That's my Kindle to give you an idea of how large the balls are.

With my tv remote for perspective, here's one of my favorite meals - a doner kebab.  Perhaps not authentic Vietnamese food but it made for a delicious dinner.

I have a friend who believes that doner kebabs are filled with bacteria and should be avoided.  I disagree.  And with a name like Duc Long, how could I resist?

Strolling through the Old Quarter of Hanoi is not a relaxing endeavor.  It felt more like being in a life-size game of Frogger.

I explored pretty much all of the Old Quarter.  I saw no grocery stores.  Mostly ladies with baskets of items for sale and small stalls like this one.  There is a large open air market about a 15 minute drive away.  That's where the vendors buy their produce to sell.

This vendor was carrying baskets of tiny land crabs.

One of the many Bun Cha sellers.  Given that I'm almost 6 feet tall and "voluptuous" (which is the term I prefer to "fat") those tiny chairs are a challenge I don't care to face. 

Want some fresh flowers for a decoration or an offering?  Vendors will roll by to sell them to you.

Beautiful fresh fruit.

Electrical wires are everywhere above ground in Asia.

Just when I found a quiet street to stroll down a motorbike would zip up behind me.  Every single time.

I think this should be my next job.  I couldn't provide much information to tourists but it would be great cardio and my butt and thighs would look awesome.

I enjoyed the trees in the city.

These are called Hands of Buddha and are a fruit in the citron family.  I saw them first at the Stop and Shop in Revere, MA of all places.