Wednesday, January 2 - Hop On, Hop Off

After walking my feet off around the historical centro area of Guadalajara, I decided to check out the hop-on/hop-off bus.  Luckily, I was able to buy a ticket at the bus, since I had exact change.  The transaction was done in Spanish.  I speak some Spanish and understand more but when people speak quickly, I tend to miss details. 

The young lady from the Tapatio Bus Tours was kind.  I gave her 150 Pesos (about $7.50) and she kindly handed back 50 pesos.  Senior discount.  If you've been on the hop-on/hop-off busses in other cities, even at $7.50 this was a bargain.  They tend to be more in the $40-50 dollar range.

The busses ran four routes:  Guadalajara (which I didn't take since I'd just walked it); Tlaquepaque; Tonala (only offered on Thursdays and Sundays when local craftsman have a street fair) and Zapopan.  So I took two of the four routes.  The first, Tlaquepaque (yeah, pronounce that!) took about 1 1/2 hours and included a 30 minute stop in the center of an area known for quality crafts.

I'm trying really, really hard not to buy stuff so I just looked around.  It was hard when a $65 leather purse started screaming my name, but I resisted.  I don't want to spend more money and my house is already full of "treasures" (another word for crap bought while traveling).  Plus, I'm traveling for eight days with a carry on bag, so don't have a lot of room to pack more goodies.  I could have carried the purse, though.  And I really, really liked it. 

I did look for tin crafts for my cousin Candy but found out they're more common in San Miguel de Allende, which is several hours from here.  Tlaquepaque is known more for leather goods - you know, like the beautiful purse that is still calling to me.

Anyway, I enjoyed resting my feet while listening to mariachi music on the headphones provided by the tour bus.  The music was interspersed with descriptions (in English) of the sites we were cruising past.  I also sat open-mouthed much of the time as the driver of this huge double-decker bus drove quickly (like 35 MPH) down roads so narrow that we passed cars and occasionally humans with literally only inches to spare.  I can barely pull into my garage without hitting something.

Once back at the place where all the bus routes start I walked to another bus and asked the driver where he was going.  "Zapopan".  I had no idea what he said or meant but figured what the heck and got on.  More headphones, more tight streets and more sights to see.  On this two hour ride to the suburb of Zapopan, I got to see what happens when the giant bus tries to make a tight turn, has to back up and almost hits a food vendor on a bicycle.  The vendor glared but that was it. 

Once back where we started I decided to head back to the hotel.  The walk was very different than the previous day since now most businesses were open and the streets were crowded with what looked like Mexican tourists.

Overall impression of the city?  Scruffy, dirty, could use some zoning laws.  As in many countries, shopping seems to be in zones - technology in one area, a few blocks away everything related to beauty salon supplies, another area for furniture, etc.  All interspersed with what appeared to be light industrial areas.  And churches.  Lots and lots of beautiful Catholic churches.

And a few random thoughts I had as I rode around the city:

Why is the mariachi band playing a polka?

Why do cars stop at some stop signs and not others?  Amount of traffic doesn't seem to be the deciding factor.

Does everyone have the week off for the holiday because there are lots and lots of families with small children but not many people who I'd normally expect to find in a central business district.

Why are gas stations and car dealerships the fanciest/best maintained businesses in every country in the world?

And now, some photos...

These pasties, your choice of sweet or savory, are about $1

Two slices of pizza and a drink for $2.50.

I didn't go in.

Didn't go here either.

Why don't we have a snack place that sells sweet and salty stuff? 

This is part of the biggest nativity scene I've ever scene.  I'd also never seen an elephant in one.

Shoe shine stands everywhere.

Oh, thank goodness - more shoe shine stands.

That's a big jewelry store.

The military museum.

For my Detroit friends.

Waiting for a bus.

Food in Guadalajara

One of the reasons I chose to come to Guadalajara was its culinary reputation.  So far, I have not been disappointed.  Here's what I've eaten so far:

Dinner on January 1 was delivered courtesy of UberEats.  Just like in the USA, you order on your phone, pay through the app and it is delivered to your door.  Or in this case, to my lobby since the driver wasn't allowed to come to my room.  For a green chile taco, chicken flauta, picadillo sope, cheese enchilada, 3 kinds of red sauce, one green sauce, cheese, sour cream, lettuce/radishes/lime, a jericallas plus a delivery fee, the meal was less than $10 USD.  And included a ceramic plate!

The world's largest chicken flauta was excellent.

On the plate is, from top to bottom, a cheese enchilada, a taco de rajas (green chile taco) and a sope de picadillo.  A sope is similar to a tostada  - the base is made of masa but thicker than a corn tortilla.  Picadillo is a type of non-spicy hamburger mix.  The taco de rajas was my favorite - roasted green chiles stuffed into a corn tortilla and deep fried.  

On the left is the bag of salad.  in the bag at the top right is the jericalla, which is a type of flan.  Similar to a creme brulee but instead of flaming sugar on top, the top is just baked longer with no additional sugar added.  It was mild, creamy and delicious but would have been easier to eat with a spoon.  

I was surprised that the Coke came in a glass bottle.  I was even more surprised that the bag of food include this ceramic plate.  A gift?  A mistake?  Am I expected to return it? Can't wait to order UberEats from another restaurant to see if I get another plate!

 My second meal was breakfast on January 2.  Because my check-in was delayed so long, the hotel gave me a voucher for their buffet breakfast, which is typically a $7 charge.  I've rarely been impressed with buffet  breakfasts in hotels.  In my experience there is usually limited variety and poor quality.  Not the case today!  I may be paying the $7 for breakfast here every day.

The buffet choices included both whole and cut fruits (apples, oranges, kiwi, pears, pineapple, cantelope, watermelon).  Also, a variety of yogurts and toppings.  The hot foods included several types of sausages/chorizo, potatoes, refried beans, a beef chile stew, a chicken chile stew, pancakes.  There were a variety of Mexican breads, some sweet, some savory.  There was also tossed salad, cold cuts and cheese.  And, a station for custom eggs/omelettes.

I was intrigued by the drink dispenser.  There was orange juice and "Jugo Verde" which was translated as "Green Juice".  I asked the hostess what it was.  I was reminded that when you ask a Mexican a question in Spanish, chances are they will reply in Spanish.  Which means,  if your Spanish is as pathetic as mine, you'll get the gist of the answer without all the details.  Basically it seems that Green Juice is a combo of orange juice, apple juice, spinach and a couple of other things I didn't catch.  Que rico - very good - I'll try it tomorrow, since I'd already helped myself to OJ.

While each patron helped themselves to the buffet, there were friendly ladies bringing us coffee and cleaning up to keep tables available for new patrons. 

My breakfast included (from the top) some pineapple and cantaloupe, a sweet biscuit that was crumbly and excellent, some salad and a slice of cheese, refried beans, chicken stew and beef stew.  It took everything I had to not go back for seconds.

When I sat down I put my purse on the floor.  Whoops - cultural no-no.  The waitress brought a coat tree and hung it for me.

The good news is I'll be doing way more walking than usual to help work off all the calories.