Random Thoughts

The piglet I held for hours during training.  So sweet.

Written December 28, 2010

Getting access to the internet today for the first time in a week.  I thought I’d have access in Apia but no luck.  I went to Apia on Christmas Eve and returned on Sunday morning.  I spent the time with some Peace Corps staff/volunteers in a lovely western style home, with all the amenities.  We spoke only English and ate only Palagi food – grilled steak, chicken, fish, mashed potatoes, carrots, green beans, salad (!) and Kraft mac and cheese, courtesy of my friends.  The teenage boy at the dinner was a HUGE fan of the mac and cheese and I think it was the highlight of his day. I was most excited about the cheese tray before dinner that included camembert, brie and olives.  I tried not to make a pig of myself.

As much as I love Samoa, the people and the food, it was a lovely break and just what I needed.  For New Year’s Eve, the rest of the volunteers are gathering in the western side of Savaii, to celebrate in the last place on earth that the clock will tick midnight, since it’s just to the east of the International Date Line.  I’ll be staying in the village.  I heard yesterday that the plan is to go to church on New Year’s Eve for a 4 hour service that ends at midnight with everyone going outside to make as much noise as possible.  Since church is also extremely loud and I'm still having an ear issue, I plan to wear ear plugs.

Have I mentioned that food is a huge part of the culture here?  Every time you go to someone’s house, they provide refreshments.  Doesn’t matter if you just stopped by for a few minutes, you’re a guest and food is part of the deal.  The other evening, I was asked to go to a fale to take my laptop and show them the photos and video of the asiasiga that I’d taken.  I’d asked the woman visiting from New Zealand to join me, since it was the fale of the guy my family is trying to get me to marry and I didn’t want to give any false signals of interest.  When we arrived there were six young children, a few teenagers and six adults arranging furniture so we could all sit around the computer.

We’d been there for about two minutes when one of the kids delivered two plates of pineapple for the New Zealand woman and I.  The pineapple here is perfectly sweet and ripe and I thought it was a nice snack, although awkward, since it was only the two of us having any.  A few minutes later, came the plates of food.  Each adult got a plate with the New Zealand version of crackers (sorry, Kiwis, but I’ll vote for American crackers) an egg salad sandwich and a cream filled pastry.  The kids also delivered mugs of Koko Samoa.  Did I mention it was 9 p.m.?  And, that when we got back to the house, they were preparing dinner?  I passed on everything except half a sandwich and went to bed without any additional dinner. 

I just got back from Salelologa.  The largest town on the island.  I hit the market to get some vegetables, was treated to a keke pua’a by the houseguest from New Zealand who accompanied me and went to the internet café while she took the bus home.  Keke pua’a, by the way, is the Samoan version of a steamed pork bun and very tasty.

I ran into challenges at the internet.  I wasn’t able to connect and asked for help.  I was told that the WIFI doesn’t really work when it’s raining.  Since this is the rainy season, that’s a bummer.  The guy did get one computer to get online, so he let me use that for free to check my email.  Nice guy.  I’ll hope for a sunny day tomorrow and will give it another try.

While waiting for the bus and during the ride home, I saw some things I thought you might find interesting.

People love volleyball here.  They call it volley and play it every day, in every village.  And they’re awesomely good.  Today, I saw a group playing without a net.  Instead, two girls stood, holding a long stick in their upraised hands and everyone played over that.

Men have long fingernails.  Young men, old men, doesn’t matter.  Some have all their nails long, and usually nicely shaped.  Others, just the pinky.  I asked a Samoan woman if it was the fashion and she just shrugged.

As I walked down the main road in Salelologa, I saw some dogs running across the road. Wait, not dogs. Pigs.  And, there was a little of piglets in the bank parking lot.

I’m getting an idea why it’s common here to cheer on the driver.  As the bus rounded a curve there was a car in our lane.  Pointed toward us.  Parked.  It was a cab, waiting for someone to come out of the fale.

Speaking of waiting. There was a bus, full of passengers sitting in front of the bank.  Someone needed to get their banking done, I guess, while a bus full of people waited patiently.

When we got on the bus, a woman got up so that I could have the front seat, since I’m old and white.  An old Samoan woman got on later and the woman I was with got up so she could have her seat.  Later I said that I’d tried that once and the lady wouldn’t take my seat, even though she was clearly much older and less agile. My new Samoan friend said never do that.  The Samoans show respect to Palagis by giving up their seats and it’s rude to not sit in the best place on the bus.

People malolo here, a lot.  Malolo is  like a siesta.  It’s hot here in the middle of the day (although nothing like the skin melting warmth of Upolu) so it makes sense to work in the mornings and evenings.  I'm a fan of the afternoon nap. I usually read, rather than sleep, but still nice.

The other day someone made the comment “In Samoa, every day is Thanksgiving and every night is a slumber party.”  Too true.  Large families, eating large amounts of food, every day.  Not a feast every day, but think of how much food it takes to feed families that may include upwards of twenty people.  And Samoans sleep together.  Usually on mats in an open fale.  It’s cooler that way and they can chat as they’re falling asleep.  And when they wake up.  Much like a slumber party.  I’m the party pooper, sleeping in a separate room with the door closed.

Ever seen a gecko?  We have lots here.  I like them.  When I hear them “singing” loudly in my room, it gives me the same good feeling as hearing a bug zapper work.  One just pooped on my shoulder.  Who knew something that small could hold all that poop?

Most Samoans sleep on the floor, but this house has a nice bed.  Notice that there are no walls in the house.  Very traditional and typical.