Since You Asked...

The view I ignored every day.

Ok, technically, you didn’t ask, but I decided to answer questions that I had before coming here.

What’s the weather like? It’s hot, sort of.  If you’re in the shade, with a breeze, it’s usually pleasant.  I say usually because there were a few days in the training fale that by late afternoon it was hot.  Surface of the sun, melting our skin hot.  On those days, walking home in the sun was not pleasant and my clothes were drenched in sweat by the time I got there.  On most days, it’s Florida-in-the-summer hot.  Kind of cool in the mornings and evenings, but hot and muggy during the day.  It rains every day or two.  Usually at night or early in the morning, but sometimes during the day.  It cools things off until the sun comes out ten minutes later and ramps up the humidity again. 

Do you like the people?  Yes.  Like anyplace else, there are some I connect with more than others, but overall the people are very friendly and warm.  Respect is hugely important here, including respect for age.  That works in my favor, as does being a Palagi.  I get a seat on the bus, even when it’s full.  Like last week, when the bus was already over-filled at the beginning of the route where I got on.  A guy about my age whacked a guy in his 30’s in the head because he didn’t immediately jump up to give me his seat.  The whackee then jumped up, smiling, to offer me his seat.  I think he was sleeping when I stepped on the bus or he would have offered his seat immediately.

What is fa’a Samoa?  It’s the Samoan way.  Samoan culture.  Tradition.  And it’s extremely important here.  I met a Samoan guy on the street last week (did I mention Samoans are friendly?) and as we chatted he commented that other Pacific Islanders tend to get a touch annoyed with Samoans.  They few them as arrogant because they’re always going on about fa’a Samoa and how strong their culture and traditions are.  I don’t know about that, but it is strong.

In another entry I’ll try to explain my understanding of village structure.  The roles and structure that come with fa’a Samoa are very powerful.  For example, there’s really no police presence on the island except in the two cities (Apia, on Upolu and Salelologa on Savaii) except for traffic patrols.  And there doesn’t seem to be a need.  It all goes back to respect.

For example, I’ve been told by numerous people that the leaders of my village will enact a “law” when I arrive, letting the villagers know that they are not allowed to harm me or my stuff.  If they do, there could be a fine of 200 pigs. Normally it would be more like 50 pigs but because I’m old, white and a Pisi Koa, I’m more respected.  That means if someone decides they want my laptop and steal it from my fale, their whole family will have to come up with the pigs to give to the village leaders.  For some families, that would mean having to go to the bank for a loan to be able to buy that many pigs.  Rather than pay the fine, they’ll do everything they can to make sure the black sheep of their family doesn’t come near my stuff.  If he/she does, they’ll turn the village upside down looking for my things so they can be returned before the fine is levied.

If you’re thinking “yeah, right”, there have been numerous examples.  In one case, someone stole a camera and IPod from a volunteer.  He found them on his front porch, no worse the wear a few days later.

The downside of the respect and protection is that is that it can be a bit stifling.  For example, I’m not allowed to go out at night alone.  Anywhere.  I wasn’t allowed to walk to the plantation because it was too hard for someone of my advanced age and decrepit physical condition.   I’m hoping that as they get to know me in my training village, they’ll realize that although I’m Samoan sized and have grey hair, I’m pretty fit and capable.

How great is it to live so close to the ocean?  I grew up in the desert in Arizona.  We used to go to the beach in Mexico every year on vacation.  I’ve always dreamed of living on an island.  Thanks, Peace Corps.  But the ocean almost seems incidental.  The locals don’t get as excited as I do about the beautiful views.  And even though you could see the ocean from our training fale, I didn’t really notice.  I was too busy trying to figure out why “o” was used to start one sentence and “e” was used to start another.  Sort of like the time I had an office on the 23^rd floor of a building in San Francisco.  Beautiful view of the city and the bay, but I was always too busy to notice.

It really is true.  Wherever you go, there you are.

What’s the food like?  Bland.  Starchy.  Unhealthy. And, I’m enjoying it.  Because most people have very little money, they eat what they raise.  They raise mostly root crops like taro.  Bananas and breadfruit run a close second.  They eat these either roasted in the outdoor oven (umu) or boil it.  In the meals I’ve had, Samoans don’t use many spices.  My sister used a lot of “salt”, which I discovered was actually MSG.  They sell it in large bags here.  For those who are horrified, I remember my mom using it liberally when I was a kid.  It was quite popular back in the day. 

Beyond the starchy veggies, though, that make up the bulk of the diet, there are some great treats.  I came home one night to “meat balls.”  Well, they looked and smelled like meatballs, but were actually mackerel balls.  I don’t know how she did it, but Fa used some flour, onions and a can of mackerel to make a delicious dish.  Several of the other trainees also tasted it, so I assume it’s a traditional dish. 

I’m also a big fan of the seafood. Tui Tui (or Kui Kui, in the K language, which is a whole different blog topic) is fabulous.  Raw sea urchin, fresh from the sea.  I also love the limu, which is crunchy and salty.  Palusami, made from young taro leaves and coconut cream is good.  I liked dipping the breadfruit in it.

And even though most traditional foods are bland,  they grow some really spicy red chilis.  One of the volunteers showed me how she fills a small bottle with vinegar and the small hot chilis and lets it marinate, then uses it to spice up the taro, etc.

Class is ready to start to I’ll close for now.  Happy Aso Lua (Tuesday)

By the way – as bad as my Samoan is, I’m trying to use it.  After class yesterday I walked a few miles in the sun to do some shopping.  I successfully bought a cool necklace (the one I bought in New Zealand years ago disappeared) and a pineapple.  All in Samoan.  Then, I took a cab back.  Negotiated price and gave my destination in Samoan.  I’m quite proud of myself.

The cab driver and I started speaking in English and he told me he’d been to San Bernadino recently, where he’d lived for years. He gave me his number and asked me to come for dinner and a stay of a day or two sometime.  He and his wife love to talk with Americans, to reminisce about their time there and refresh their English.  Did I mention that Samoans are friendly?

The foal I saw every morning on my way to school.