March 14-15, 2020 - Days 70-71 - The Cruise Is Cancelled

Usually sea days are pretty uneventful but not yesterday.  I got a text from my friend Heidi, who ironically is on her way home from Santiago where she'd gone to embark on a cruise that was cancelled by Norwegian at the last minute.  The text said my cruise was cancelled along with all the other HAL cruises.  She included a link from a HAL statement but internet was too weak to open it.

As I continued to try to access information on line, Heidi texted me details from the HAL post.  Most cruises would be ending within one or two days, at their original destinations.  We'd be ending in Fremantle on March 24.

About an hour later, at noon, Captain Jonathon came on the loudspeaker.  He typically makes daily announcements at 12:30 p.m. on sea days.  He sounded a bit annoyed when he announced that he was talking to us now because several people had seen things on the internet and he wanted to address them.  I suspect his irritation was HAL posting the information for the world to see before we were informed.

He went on to say that because of the rapidly changing situation, with an overabundance of caution, yada yada yada, that the cruise was done.  BTW, this is his final cruise because he is retiring at the end.  Certainly not the final cruise he dreamed of.

He confirmed the March 24 disembarkation in Fremantle but had no other information.  He did ask that we did not go to Guest Services because they had no additional information.  Seattle corporate was working on how to get us home and we should wait for information.

Passenger reaction was fairly subdued.  I was standing in the hall outside my cabin chatting with other passengers after the announcement.  Shared initial concern wasn't about keeping healthy on flights home, it was how we'd pack all the stuff we'd bought.  When I mentioned packing as an issue (I packed assuming I'd be driving to/from the ship, not on a plane) one sweet elderly lady (ok, she's maybe a few years older than me) said "Shit!" with great feeling as she realized the implications and then apologized profusely for the profanity.  We all laughed because we were thinking exactly the same thing.

Next I ran into Fathur, one of my cabin stewards.  We talked for a minute then he left to keep working and help Asep, the other steward process the information.  This is disappointing for us and getting home is challenging but this could be devastating for the crew.  As Asep told me later, there is no work where he lives in Indonesia which means no money.  And he has a newly pregnant wife.  Fathur came back from bereavement leave shortly after the cruise started because his sister had passed away suddenly.  He's now providing financial help for her children as well as his own family.   Those are just two examples of the impact on crew of not knowing when/if they'll work again.  And yet they still had to do their jobs, with a smile.

As the day went on and we went about our normal sea day routines, the impact started to sink in.  No freaking out that I saw but definite concern about how we were getting home.  A number of us spread the word to send a message via the HAL Navigator app suggesting that we cancel all ports and head back to the USA on the ship.  We'd have to stop for supplies/diesel but no passengers/crew would be allowed off the ship.  That way, we wouldn't have to fly.

At least 1/3 of the passengers have limited mobility.  Because the cruise is ending in Fremantle, the rumor is that we'd need to be bused to Perth, which has a larger airport.  Or, get their on our own.  Then, fly to Sydney then on to our final destination.  For me that would mean, best case scenario, three flights.  Plus, a lot of new cases have popped up in Sydney since we left so that's not ideal.  Someone suggested chartering planes to get us back to the USA.  I'd prefer that to commercial flights but it could devolve into the shore excursion from hell.

I heard from a passenger last night, who spoke with the EXC shore excursion manager that we can't cruise back to the USA because "they" won't let us dock.

No new news by the time I went to bed, which wasn't surprising.  I woke up about 3 a.m. and couldn't get back to sleep and checked for info outside my door and found a notice from the Hotel Director saying that they had received a number of complicated questions which were being referred to corporate and due to the complexity and volume we probably wouldn't receive responses for a couple of days.

There are three Cruise Specialist reps on board and I haven't heard anything from them.  Not a surprise since although they have a close relationship with HAL, I don't think anyone knows details of what is going to happen.  Nothing we can do now but wait and have faith that HAL will support us as well as possible.

For many on this cruise, ambivalence is not their happy place.  Having been self-employed for so long, I'm more accustomed to it and more comfortable.  Yes, I'm anxious to know if I should be booking my travel home or whatever but I'm ok with it.  I suspect the anxiety level overall will increase as more time passes without news.  Not different than everybody else in the world who don't know what's coming next.  At least we are safe and comfortable.

In most ways, life on board is normal.  Last night was a Gala Night and lots of passengers were formally dressed.  As usual, I passed on that but did have dinner in the Lido with a friend where I dined on caviar, shrimp cocktail, cod and key lime pie (which was really, really good).

We received an updated notice of special events (Orange Night, HAL anniversary celebration, Gala Farewell Dinner, etc.) and a pillow gift.

Ironically, the pillow gift was the traditional Delft platter showing our itinerary (which we aren't doing).  It is lovely but large, heavy and fragile.  That would have been no problem when I was driving home from Ft. Lauderdale.  How I'm going to pack it, I don't have a clue.

This morning is sunny, smooth seas and temps in the mid-80's.  Time to get out and enjoy the day.  As usual, internet isn't adequate enough for photos (or to check flights) so those will come later.  I'm going to find a deck chair and enjoy the view of my new pedicure and the ocean.

Sunday and Monday, January 19-20 --Rio de Janeiro

Today I did a tour in a giant open air Jeep. Not what I expected but fun and I got to see quite a bit of Río.  I'll be adding photo captions and more posts before we head out to sea tomorrow evening.

If you want to ignore all the blah, blah, blah, skip down to the photos.

Ok, now it's Monday, January 20, 2020.  It is grey and overcast today so opted to not take the helicopter ride.  Instead, I'm staying on board and playing with my blog, along with calling and texting friends while I have phone service.

Yesterday I took a HAL shore excursion titled Tijuca Rain Forest Tour in a 4X4.  We left the ship at 9:15 a.m. and walked over to a parking structure a couple of blocks away.  There about 38 of us and we fit into four vehicles.  I lucked out and was offered a seat with the driver in the front.  (Hey Mary Lou, remember in Guatemala when we took the truck taxi and you were in the back with the chickens while I got the front?  You know parking karma?  I have front seat karma).

I wasn't sure exactly what we'd be doing but assumed it would involve going off-road in the aforementioned forest.  The tour information mentioned sloths and monkeys. 

No.  Instead we drove through Rio, through downtown and past Cococabana and Impanema.  We passed a large lake with biking and running trails, exercise equipment, dog parks and lots of people exercising and enjoying the Sunday morning. 

We went through a lot of very, very long tunnels.  If you are uncomfortable with tunnels this is NOT a city for you.

Then we headed up.  It seems the forest, which is a government park, is over 7500 acres and it's on a mountain.  The drive up to the first overlook was great.  Cool, shady and beautiful greenery.  The only way we'd see a sloth or monkey, though, would have been if they had been riding one of the many bicycles we passed.

We reached the Chinese Scenic Point, which has a pagoda shaped area near the incredible views of Rio and the Ocean.  And, Christ the Redeemer.  Sadly, the foggy, overcast day was not the best for photos but still amazing.

From there, we headed to another part of the park and another photo opp.  This time, it was a waterfall. A lovely waterfall which seemed very popular with the locals.  We hung out there for awhile.  When people came back from taking photos the grumbling began in earnest. 

It seems we were originally supposed to make a stop to do a bit of hiking through the woods to see the sloths and monkeys.  Some people in another vehicle said they had mobility issues and didn't want to do the hiking.  So someone, either the tour operator or one of the HAL staff with us decided to change the itinerary, mid-tour.  Some weren't happy about it.  We made a last stop at a pond with koi and turtles.  Frankly, I can walk out my front door and see something similar.  The guides said they once saw an alligator!  Yeah, I live in central Florida.  Seeing an alligator to me is about as exciting as seeing a dog.

Anyway, we stayed there longer than needed to kill time since we didn't do the walk.  More grumbling. 

Based on some of the grumbled comments it seems that some are very sensitive about people not paying attention to the mobility requirements on excursions.  I agree that if you are on a walker perhaps a 4X4 ride and jungle trek might not be your best choice.  Please check BEFORE the tour to ensure you can safely participate.  On board I've heard more grumbling about earlier tours, mostly about fellow passengers who are either unable to keep up or don't pay attention to time constraints.  So far we've left port late twice because of delays on shore excursions getting back.

And if you are on a tour and they're doing something that you can't easily do, sit it out.  I think HAL made the wrong call on this one by making an arbitrary decision in the middle of a tour but I didn't care.  I still saw Rio, a beautiful nature area and amazing views.  And now I know what the corn plant I keep on my front porch would look like if I planted it in Rio - huge!

Military building, complete with ceremonial cannons.

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We took turns taking photos of each other.  This tour could easily be done in a mini-van since we never left the tarmac.  The fresh air was nice but getting in and out of those trucks is a challenge.

I assume the Rio roads are a bit more crowded when it's not Sunday.

The sign said it was a river.  Really?

This is part of a HUGE soccer stadium.  Like most buildings we passed it was in serious disrepair.

Graffiti, murals, art?  Everywhere.

In the Tijuca area.  Straight ahead is one of the many favelas (slums) around Rio.

15 minutes from the slums is the Tijuca Forest.

See the turtles?  Some of the passengers were so excited, bless their hearts.  I need to invite them to Blue Springs State Park

Love the flowers on this tree.

Typical street.  

We were told not to take the stairs.

Fallen trees in Tijuca.

A church.  The cross might have given it away.

Lots of old VWs in Rio.

A picnic area.  These folks were barbecuing and it smelled wonderful.

The waterfall.

When they put the tour number, they weren't thinking about the view of whoever was sitting in front.  The driver took this off after our last stop.  LOL.

Fancy entrance to the park.

The Chinese look out.

That's Ipanema beach on the right.  Six foot waves!

Christ the Redeemer

As I was taking photos I noticed a mom and her two grown sons taking photos of themselves with the view in the background.  I offered (pantomime) to take a photo of the three of them.  I did, they thanked me in Portuguese then the mom gave me a long hug and kiss.  Have to say I'm a fan of the hugging and kissing culture.

Those are trees with white flowers.

More slums.

The entrance gate to a private home.

They were having a church service.

Can you see the two hang gliders?  Those people are NUTS!

Fancy new building with condos for sale.

View as we drove past the busy beach.

Lots of parks and each has exercise equipment.

One of many stores to buy houseplants.

The beach.  They turned the other side of the road to a pedestrian way.  Lots of joggers and walkers.

I wish we could have stopped at a local restaurant like this.  Several had huge ovens doing rotisserie chickens.