March 17, 2020 - Day 72 - Updates on Disembarking

Another glorious day cruising on the very calm Indian Ocean.  Yesterday was similar, clear skies, warm weather and lots of anxiety.

The Captain had said he would make an announcement yesterday morning with an update on whether we'd be getting off in Fremantle or cruising back to the USA.  At 9:30 a.m. Hamish, our Cruise Director (as he tells us every single time he makes an announcement) came on and ignored the giant elephant on the ship and just gave the typical run down of the day's activities.

Around 11:00 a.m., the Captain came on to say that the Australian authorities would be allowing us off the ship in Fremantle and that all passengers must disembark on March 22.  The ship will stay in port until March 23.  He also said that he knew that a number of passengers had reported that they are physically unable to fly and that if that was certified by the ship's Doctor, they "would be accommodated".  Presumably that means cruising back to the US.

He went on to say that HAL in Seattle was working on a letter to provide details about disembarkation and reimbursement.  I happened to be in the hall outside my cabin along with a number of other passengers and my cabin steward.  There were tears and someone said a really bad word with a lot of feeling.  Ok, that was me.  I had to apologize to my young cabin steward.  Almost everyone on the ship wanted to just skip ports, except for refueling and supplies and just head home. 

About an hour later, the Captain came back on to say that because no more information was currently available from HAL and Guest Services was being inundated with questions, he was going to provide an overview of the information we'd be getting in the letter.  I suspect he only did this because it's his last cruise.  What are they going to do?  Fire him and keep his pension?

Here's what he said:

• If you booked air through HAL, they would make your travel arrangements home.  If you booked independently or didn't have any air booked (the case for several hundred of us who live in Florida), we are on our own.  HAL would reimburse up to $1,250 for flights, hotels, etc.
• Our transit visas are valid for 14 days in Australia.
• For reimbursement for the missed second half of the cruise we had two options.  Option One - 50% of fare paid would be credited to our credit card on file PLUS 50% of fare paid would be given as a future cruise credit.  Option Two - 125% of fare paid would be given as a future cruise credit.
• If you had used the HAL luggage program (bags are picked up at your house before the cruise and taken to the ship and sent to your home after the cruise) HAL would honor that.  Also, other baggage (some passengers have 12-14 bags) can be left on the ship and picked up at a later date in Ft. Lauderdale or they can Fed Ex bags, at passenger expense.  

The Captain said HAL is working on the details and we would be getting a letter in our staterooms, hopefully in the afternoon.  That was yesterday.  We still have no details from HAL.

People were clearly VERY unhappy about the decision to kick us off the ship.  Many (including me) believe it is a decision made to limit liability.  Better to take a hit by angering loyal customers than risk another month on board when someone tests positive for the virus.

Some of us immediately started trying to book flights using the incredibly slow internet.  Others are taking a "wait and see" approach and planning to make arrangements once we're in port.

I was able to get a flight booked yesterday.  Assuming international flights are still flying, I'll leave Perth at 10:50 pm on Monday night, March 23.  Itinerary is Perth >Sydney>Los Angeles>Orlando.  I also have a room booked near the airport and plan to just get a taxi to the hotel from the ship. 

There was one business class seat left on that itinerary.  Many people haven't started booking flights yet.  The thinking seems to be that since not many people are traveling, there will be lots of empty seats.  But, airlines have already cancelled a lot of flights.  And yesterday when I realized my flight left at 10:50 at night, not in the morning, I tried to change the flight to the 22nd.  The Delta site kept kicking me out mid-change and I thought it was just slow internet.  Nope, they were changing the fare.  The price increased over $2,000 from when I booked it an hour earlier.  Which explains why I'm just getting a hotel room instead of coming home a day earlier.

I'm trying not to worry about possible scenarios - like Australia or the US closing down international flights as some countries have begun to do.  While I wouldn't mind getting a short term apartment and staying here for a month or two, my transit visa is only good for 14 days from March 22.  Or is it 14 days from when we docked in Sydney?  That's one of the details we're waiting for.

We got a notice  yesterday that today at noon is the last time to turn in clothes to be washed.  Luckily, I've been using the unlimited free laundry service regularly so I'm good.  The free laundry is a perk of being a 4 Star Mariner.  Which makes me wonder - will I get credit for the sea days we missed?  Not that I'm likely to ever accrue 500 days on board to get to 5 Star status.

Last night's cocktail party was great.  I sat with my regular trivia/happy hour friends in our usual spot, along with another couple.  Lucky that we planned ahead and got there early.  The place was packed - unlimited free liquor is one way to fill a bar.  Norris, our regular server was a star.  Even though he was being run ragged, he made sure that he took our orders and then didn't bother to ask for more - he just brought fresh drinks when the first ones ran out. 

He was the same guy who worked the Cruise Specialist cocktail party.  While others were sipping the house wine being handed out, without me asking Norris brought my preferred drink (a Brooklyn).  Last night he also played photographer for our group when there was a break in the crowd.

The mood was upbeat in the room with lots of jokes being made.  One woman wore a large sign on her back that said "So Sorry - Free Hugs!"

BTW, some have asked why Australia is letting us in given that they've closed the borders to in transit ships.  The Captains explanation was that it is because the ship/passengers were medically cleared in Sydney where we went through immigration and we've been either at sea or in Australia since.  Lucky for us.  I heard yesterday that the Crystal is using the same loophole and will also be docking in Fremantle but I'm not sure what day.

After docking overnight in Fremantle, the Amsterdam with only crew and select passengers, will cruise on either the Bahamas or the USA for dry dock (which was scheduled to follow the world cruise). 

Yesterday when the Captain made his announcement he said passengers physically unable to fly needed to be certified by the ship's doctor.  That resulted in a very long line of people outside the medical center yesterday trying to get clearance to stay on board.  The Captain had to make another announcement asking people to NOT go to the medical center unless they had an emergency and not for clearance.

No announcements yet today.  When we get the letter from HAL with details, I'll share that.  In the meantime, fingers crossed that I'm on the plane next Monday, heading home.

Meanwhile, enjoy these great photos!  Just kidding.  The internet is slower than ever because so many passengers are trying to make travel arrangements.

The Silver Lining - Reasons I'm Glad The Cruise Was Cancelled

UPDATE:  We were expecting news tonight on what HAL was planning for us when we got to Fremantle. Instead, the Captain announced that Australia has closed all ports to ships in transit.  HAL and Australian government officials are having a conference call tonight to determine exactly what that means.  I'm hoping we'll be allowed to dock (with no passengers or crew leaving the ship), replenish diesel and supplies then head toward Florida. 

Now, back to our regularly scheduled programming.

I am NOT happy the cruise was cancelled.  I understand it.  I think it was the prudent decision but would be MUCH happier if the damn corona virus was just a blip and not a pandemic.

Rather than stressing about things over which I have no control, like how I'm going to get home to Florida from Fremantle, I've focused today on not the sad side of this situation, but all the good stuff.  Here are some things I'm grateful for and looking forward to.

Here's the list, in random order.

• I've been posting updates on FaceBook to let friends know where I am and what's happening.  I'm am touched by the support I've received.  In particular, all the people who have business associates or relatives in Australia and are offering to put me in touch if I need assistance while I'm here.  I'm feeling the love and it means a lot.
• What a great travel story this will be when I'm a geezer in a nursing home.  I can repeat it ad infinitum and bore all the other geezers.
• I can't wait to hug my friends.  It may be a couple of weeks after I get home but still.
• Fast internet.
• Taking a shower and being able to use both hands since at sea I need one hand to hang on.
• Pajama days, when I can shower and not worry about hair, make-up or wearing a bra all day.  Sorry for TMI.
• Sleeping in my own bed.
• My shower, which is an oversized walk-in shower with a 4'X6' window for natural light.
• Being able to walk just a few steps to get tea or coffee.
• My surround sound tv set up with Amazon, Hulu and Netflix.
• Good pizza.  There are differing views on board but I think the pizza tastes like frozen (it's not).  Eddie's Pizza in Longwood, I've missed you.
• Mexican food.  They have stuff they call Mexican on board but it is not even close.  It's tasty, just not Mexican.
• Driving my car.  Just being able to hop in the car and go.
• Having internet on all my stuff, all the time.  Phone, Chromebook and Kindle.  What a concept.
• Silence.  There always seems to be some noise on board.  Most of it is good - ocean against the ship, etc. but silence is good.
• Children.  I love kids.  My career started as a teacher and ended as a teacher.  I look forward to being around kids when I get home.
• Cooking.  I'm going to regret this one because I do love the incredible food options at every meal but I am looking forward to cooking.  
• Inexpensive massages.  J. Sterling Wellness Spas, I'll be making weekly appointments as soon as I can.  $39 for an hour of great massage?  Yes!
• Dental care.  I chipped a tooth in Brazil.  So far, so good but will be good to get back to the dentist.  
• My pool.  I love looking at it, especially at night when it is lit up and I love swimming in it.  Or just sitting out by the pool in the evening.
• Using my gas grill to fix dinner, enjoying grilling by the pool.
• 4 Rivers Bar-b-que in Longwood.  The Messy Pig is my favorite - a stack of cheesy grits, pulled pork, cole slaw and jalapenos with sweet and spicy sauce.  Yum.
• The privacy of my house where I have space to dance, sing at the top of my lungs and just be.
• Cheap wine.
• High ceilings.  My house has vaulted ceilings which is wonderful and gives such a feeling of space as opposed to the low ceilings in my cabin.
• Being alone. Not seeing another human for days at a time.  Bliss.

I'm sure there are things I'm missing.   What are things that you love about your home?

March 14-15, 2020 - Days 70-71 - The Cruise Is Cancelled

Usually sea days are pretty uneventful but not yesterday.  I got a text from my friend Heidi, who ironically is on her way home from Santiago where she'd gone to embark on a cruise that was cancelled by Norwegian at the last minute.  The text said my cruise was cancelled along with all the other HAL cruises.  She included a link from a HAL statement but internet was too weak to open it.

As I continued to try to access information on line, Heidi texted me details from the HAL post.  Most cruises would be ending within one or two days, at their original destinations.  We'd be ending in Fremantle on March 24.

About an hour later, at noon, Captain Jonathon came on the loudspeaker.  He typically makes daily announcements at 12:30 p.m. on sea days.  He sounded a bit annoyed when he announced that he was talking to us now because several people had seen things on the internet and he wanted to address them.  I suspect his irritation was HAL posting the information for the world to see before we were informed.

He went on to say that because of the rapidly changing situation, with an overabundance of caution, yada yada yada, that the cruise was done.  BTW, this is his final cruise because he is retiring at the end.  Certainly not the final cruise he dreamed of.

He confirmed the March 24 disembarkation in Fremantle but had no other information.  He did ask that we did not go to Guest Services because they had no additional information.  Seattle corporate was working on how to get us home and we should wait for information.

Passenger reaction was fairly subdued.  I was standing in the hall outside my cabin chatting with other passengers after the announcement.  Shared initial concern wasn't about keeping healthy on flights home, it was how we'd pack all the stuff we'd bought.  When I mentioned packing as an issue (I packed assuming I'd be driving to/from the ship, not on a plane) one sweet elderly lady (ok, she's maybe a few years older than me) said "Shit!" with great feeling as she realized the implications and then apologized profusely for the profanity.  We all laughed because we were thinking exactly the same thing.

Next I ran into Fathur, one of my cabin stewards.  We talked for a minute then he left to keep working and help Asep, the other steward process the information.  This is disappointing for us and getting home is challenging but this could be devastating for the crew.  As Asep told me later, there is no work where he lives in Indonesia which means no money.  And he has a newly pregnant wife.  Fathur came back from bereavement leave shortly after the cruise started because his sister had passed away suddenly.  He's now providing financial help for her children as well as his own family.   Those are just two examples of the impact on crew of not knowing when/if they'll work again.  And yet they still had to do their jobs, with a smile.

As the day went on and we went about our normal sea day routines, the impact started to sink in.  No freaking out that I saw but definite concern about how we were getting home.  A number of us spread the word to send a message via the HAL Navigator app suggesting that we cancel all ports and head back to the USA on the ship.  We'd have to stop for supplies/diesel but no passengers/crew would be allowed off the ship.  That way, we wouldn't have to fly.

At least 1/3 of the passengers have limited mobility.  Because the cruise is ending in Fremantle, the rumor is that we'd need to be bused to Perth, which has a larger airport.  Or, get their on our own.  Then, fly to Sydney then on to our final destination.  For me that would mean, best case scenario, three flights.  Plus, a lot of new cases have popped up in Sydney since we left so that's not ideal.  Someone suggested chartering planes to get us back to the USA.  I'd prefer that to commercial flights but it could devolve into the shore excursion from hell.

I heard from a passenger last night, who spoke with the EXC shore excursion manager that we can't cruise back to the USA because "they" won't let us dock.

No new news by the time I went to bed, which wasn't surprising.  I woke up about 3 a.m. and couldn't get back to sleep and checked for info outside my door and found a notice from the Hotel Director saying that they had received a number of complicated questions which were being referred to corporate and due to the complexity and volume we probably wouldn't receive responses for a couple of days.

There are three Cruise Specialist reps on board and I haven't heard anything from them.  Not a surprise since although they have a close relationship with HAL, I don't think anyone knows details of what is going to happen.  Nothing we can do now but wait and have faith that HAL will support us as well as possible.

For many on this cruise, ambivalence is not their happy place.  Having been self-employed for so long, I'm more accustomed to it and more comfortable.  Yes, I'm anxious to know if I should be booking my travel home or whatever but I'm ok with it.  I suspect the anxiety level overall will increase as more time passes without news.  Not different than everybody else in the world who don't know what's coming next.  At least we are safe and comfortable.

In most ways, life on board is normal.  Last night was a Gala Night and lots of passengers were formally dressed.  As usual, I passed on that but did have dinner in the Lido with a friend where I dined on caviar, shrimp cocktail, cod and key lime pie (which was really, really good).

We received an updated notice of special events (Orange Night, HAL anniversary celebration, Gala Farewell Dinner, etc.) and a pillow gift.

Ironically, the pillow gift was the traditional Delft platter showing our itinerary (which we aren't doing).  It is lovely but large, heavy and fragile.  That would have been no problem when I was driving home from Ft. Lauderdale.  How I'm going to pack it, I don't have a clue.

This morning is sunny, smooth seas and temps in the mid-80's.  Time to get out and enjoy the day.  As usual, internet isn't adequate enough for photos (or to check flights) so those will come later.  I'm going to find a deck chair and enjoy the view of my new pedicure and the ocean.

March 11 - Day 67 - Townsville Australia

My plan for Townsville was to get a haircut and visit the Aquarium, which was advertised as the largest aquarium in the southern hemisphere.  I LOVE aquariums so was very excited.

I got up and ready early to get off the ship but surprise!  It was raining.  So I opted to give it some time before walking to the port terminal and taking the shuttle bus to town. 

The rain did stop, leaving the weather very hot and humid.  Think NOLA in August.  It was a fairly short walk to the cruise port and that's when I started to be impressed.

As we walked into the small, new terminal, we were greeted by volunteers wearing pink shirts.  Most appeared to be retirees and they all seemed very excited to have us visit.  Screw the Corona Virus, they are trying to convince ships to dock in Townsville rather than the larger, more popular Cairns (which is closer to the Barrier Reef).  They rolled out the red carpet, literally.

The terminal was filled with comfortable chairs to use while using the free WIFI, along with more than a dozen artists and vendors selling their wares.  Everyone was friendly and cheerful and prices were good.  But, I just looked and headed to the shuttle bus.  The bus was great and easy to get on and off which means a lot when almost half the passengers use a cane, walker or scooter.

After a short drive to the center of the downtown area I hopped off and looked for a "pink shirt lady" but didn't see any.  Instead I saw Michael - a guy wearing a blue shirt and a name tag.  I asked about the ladies since I'd been told they'd be meeting our bus to give directions.  Michael laughed and said "Oh, they forget about us Blue Shirt Boys!"  And sure enough, as I looked around I realized that the male counterparts of the ladies at the port were here to help.

Michael pointed to a place where I could join the line waiting for another shuttle bus to the aquarium.  After a brief wait I snagged the last seat on the small free bus.  On the way to the aquarium the driver gave us information about the town of 200,000 people.  A town who relies on mining, cattle and a large military base and to a smaller extent, tourism. 

Most of us got off at the aquarium.  Some opted to head back downtown.  It actually was walkable, just a couple of miles but given the heat I was happy for the bus.

The aquarium was lovely.  Older and not as large as many I've been to (Atlanta comes to mind) but it wasn't too crowded, had a lot of volunteers and staff members to answer questions.  The best part, from my perspective, was that there were a lot of places to just sit and watch the fish.  Most of the other visitors were from the ship so it was a bit like a private tour.

I spent a couple of hours alternating wandering around and reading about the different fish and just sitting and watching the fish.

I went out to catch the shuttle to the shuttle and waited.  A bus pulled up and I was hopeful but it was a HAL shore excursion arriving.  I timed my trip perfectly. 

After about 15 minutes the driver of the bus walked up and said hello.  I told him I was considering hijacking his bus to get a ride back to the ship.  By then there were about a dozen of us waiting.  He stepped away and pulled out his phone.  A minute later he came back, apologized for our wait and said a bus was on it's way.  A few minutes later the small bus arrived to take us back downtown to catch the large bus back to the ship.

I really wanted a haircut but I know hard it can be to get a seat on the last few shuttles back to the ship and didn't want to risk it.  Instead, I went back and did a bit of window shopping in the port terminal.  I ended up paying $20 AUS for a reversible hat.  I even got to take a photo of the lovely woman who made it.

Bottom line, Townsville wins the prize for nicest, easiest to navigate port and friendliest locals.  Everyone I spoke with was friendly and helpful and seemed genuinely pleased to have us there.  It was a lovely little town and the views as we sailed away were stunning.  This is someplace I'd like to come back and spend some time.  Plus, I checked housing prices and it looks affordable to live there.  Always looking for options for places to spend a few months.

And now, here is where the photos should be.  Yes, they had WIFI in the port but all seats were taken by other passengers and crew.  And it's way more important for crew to be able to catch up with family when we're in port.  Patience is a virtue.  I'm not so virtuous.

March 8 - 10 - Days 64-66 - Sydney and at Sea

I'm continuing to have trouble uploading photos.  I'll keep working on it.  I paid $300 for internet on the ship just for this purpose but it is sooooooooo slooooooooooooow.  Usually works well enough for email and basic sites, if I'm patient but rare to be able to upload a photo. 

We had an overnight in Sydney.  It would have been much better if we'd been docked in The Rocks in the heart of Sydney but whatever.  I felt better when a Seabourne ship docked behind us.  They paid WAY more per day for their cruise.

I really wanted to go to the Rozelle Flea/Antique Market, which is held on weekends but Sunday was rainy again.  Seems to be a trend on this trip to Australia.

Since flea marketing isn't nearly as much fun in the rain, I decided to take the 30 minute shuttle bus to Darling Harbour instead.  If you've ever been to the International Drive area of Orlando, that's what Darling Harbour is like.  Madame Toussad's, Aquarium, etc. along with lots of tourists.   I walked around a bit there but it was still rainy and I wanted to get me some internet so headed to a small mall.

I got an excellent sandwich and settled in for some quality time uploading photos.  Unfortunately, the free internet was even slower than the ship.  So much for more photos.

Rather than hang out in the crowded food court, I opted to walk around the mall a bit.  Typical stores and nothing that excited me.  Until I came upon the Mandarin Massage shop.  I opted for the $80 AUS (about $53 USD) hour foot/leg/shoulders/neck.  It started with a five minute foot soak then 25 minutes of having my feet and legs massaged.  It was heavenly and was just like I used to get in Mandalay except this was way more expensive.  Why don't we have this in Orlando?

After 30 minutes, we moved to a massage table.  Fully clothed, I lay face down while the massage therapist covered my back, neck and head with a towel and went to work.  She used hands, fists, elbows and forearms to work out the knots.  Delightful.

Then I tried to sit up.  Whoa, the landsickness really kicked in and I had to lay back down for a few minutes.  Then I slowly sat up, then stood up.  I made it back to the bus then to the ship where I laid down for a bit.  By evening sail away I was feeling much better and joined friends in the Crow's Nest for sailaway.  After awhile, I decided to join the festivities in the Lido and Sea View, where they'd announced special Australian wines (for a charge) and Australian cheeses (they were exactly the same cheese we get everyday).  What they hadn't announced was that they were serving raw oysters in the Lido.  Hot diggity!  I had four.  Then went back for four more.  Then two more.  I could have eaten a dozen more but held back.  They didn't seem to be too popular with most of my fellow passengers. 

Sailing away from Sydney was beautiful.  No rain (ironic, eh?) and beautiful views of the Opera House, Harbour Bridge and the rocks surrounding the entrance to the harbor.

I was happy to be back on the water and heading out to sea.

The next two days were typical.  Cards in the morning, reading in the afternoon followed by trivia.  And watching the ocean.  Lots of ocean watching.  We had some large swells and big winds.  Like, 20 foot swells and 55 MPH winds so sleeping was a bit challenging due to the rolling factor.  But I love lying in bed, feeling the motion and thinking happy thoughts.

Sooner or later, there will be photos here.

Friday, March 6 - Day 62 - Cruising on the Tasman Sea Toward Sydney

After stops in Auckland and Bay of Islands this is our second sea day as we head to Australia.

In Auckland I only got off the ship to bring visitors on board.  One was Kyle Kincaid, who was in the Peace Corps in Samoa a year ahead of me.  He flew from Chicago just to see me then headed off to Samoa for a quick visit.  He's a flight attendant so the flight was free but that's a couple of very long flights.  I appreciated the effort and the hugs.

Ally Miller was in the Peace Corps in Samoa the year after me.  She married a Samoan guy named Rob and they now live just outside Auckland.  They left their two little girls at home and came onboard for dinner after work.  So grateful they came out on a week night to visit.

None of them had been on a cruise ship before and it was fun to see their reactions.  Helps me realize how very lucky I am to be having this experience.

We tendered in Bay of Islands.  It's a beautiful place but it was raining hard in the morning and since I've been there twice I stayed on the ship.

The big news is about the corona virus.  They'd previously announced we were changing our itinerary because of the virus and other security issues.  Singapore, Indonesia, Maldives and Kenya are out and instead the plan was to add another port in Sri Lanka and spend three days in Mumbai, India.  That didn't sit well with many passengers.  Lots of grumbling and yelling at the staff in Guest Services, who have no control over any of this.

Yesterday the Captain announced that because of both the changing dynamics of the spread of the virus and input from passengers they'd changed the itinerary again.  Now we're skipping Sri Lanka and India and instead will spend two weeks in Australia then head to Africa.  He warned that as the situation changes, the itinerary may change again.

I can't imagine the overtime HAL staff is putting in both on the ship and at headquarters in Seattle.  There are a lot of moving parts that need to be considered for any changes.

Last night was the Captain's Gala Dinner.  It used to be held for small groups in a private dining room.  Now, because there are so many passengers doing the entire world cruise they just had two seatings in the dining room, as on any gala night.  I opted not to go for a variety of reasons, including not wanting to get dressed up, the roughness of the seas and not being excited about the menu.  I ended up skipping dinner and just having the dessert which was available in the in the Lido.

I talked to a couple this morning who went to the dinner and they said it was lovely.  Large floral center pieces, crew in formal attire, and lots of free wine.  They also said the food was great.  Sorry I missed it but at 7:30 when I was scheduled to dine, I was in my jammies in my cabin with an ice bag on my knee.  It doesn't hurt much but is still swollen and bruised from the fall in Tahiti.  I walked about five miles while showing guests around the ship the other day and it was really sore the following day so I'm trying to take it a bit easier.

Sadly, there was another announcement this morning calling for medical staff to respond to an emergency on deck seven, which is the deck with the most expensive cabins.   There have been several announcements like this.  Not surprising when the average passenger age is late 70's.  One of my guests commented that I looked like a youngster compared to my fellow passengers.

I'm still loving being on the ship.  I miss friends, driving and even am starting to miss cooking.  Please remind me of that when I get home and start bitching about not having people serve me a huge variety of food.

And now, some photos.  Been trying to load photos but the internet is too slow.  Will try again later or worst case, will post them in Sydney.

Friday, February 28, 2020 - Day 56 - Nuku'alofa Tonga

I was so excited about going to Tonga.  Since internet seems reasonable I'm going to try to post the photos first and add stories later.  The short version is I got off the ship, hired a driver, went to a school then did an island tour.  Fingers crossed on the photos!

This was the view from my bed when I woke up this morning.  The window is wet because they wash the decks above every morning.

One of the small, creative flower arrangements near Guest Services.  They used yarn to cover a plain glass vase. 

On the dock they were ready for us - singers and dancers (which I missed) and decorations on the wharf.

I hired John, a local driver to show me his island.

First stop - a school.  This is principal Anna.  I gave her a small cash gift and got a hug and kiss in return.  Along with free run of the school to enjoy the annual Sports Day.

I didn't get to go in the classrooms but the staff room and rest of the school looked very much like the schools in Samoa.

Anna introduced me to the score keeper.  When kids cross the finish line, they're given a number for first, second or third.  The kids bring the number to the score keeper and she keeps track.  That was always my job in Faga.

Lots of kids, parents, teachers and music blasting.

The playground has paths made of crushed lava.  Some kids had shoes, some didn't.  

These guys wanted their picture taken.  They weren't interested in seeing it, just wanted me to take it.  Another boy helped me find the principal but was too shy to have his photo taken.

The kids yelled, cheered, raced and seemed to be having an excellent time.  The teacher clapped together two blocks of wood to start the race.  Clever.

In the parking lot, a "Chinese Store" was doing a brisk business selling snacks.

After time at the school we headed to the blow holes.  On the way, we passed this building.  John was amazed when I asked if it was a Mormon school.  They looked exactly the same in Samoa.

Lots of taro, manioc, breadfruit, papaya, and bananas and people tending their small fields.

The blow holes.  John said they weren't very good today because the sea was so calm.  Still beautiful and worth a visit. 

The cool part was that there were great waves and blow holes all the way up the coast. 

The owner of this house likes color.  I wonder what my HOA would say if I repainted my house like this.

We passed through several villages.  They each had a sign. 

This guys house was covered in signs.  He seems to have a lot of opinions.

We drove down this path to what I thought was a beach but was actually to see the monument in the next photo.  John was great but his English was basic and I don't speak Tongan.  Luckily, some Samoan and Tongan words are the same (talo, ulu, fale, atua, etc.)

A store in the main town.  As in Samoa, a lot of the stores are owned by Chinese.

An open air produce market near the wharf.

I was determined not to buy anything.  But then saw these - they are the "nose" of a marlin, carved.  So cool and unique.  I paid $25 for one.  When I brought it on board I was told I had to leave it in my cabin.  Security apparently knows I get annoyed easily and didn't want me carrying a 3 foot "sword".  

Some of the jewelry was cool but pricey and I was determined not to buy stuff I didn't really want.

People on the ship are sporting Tonga t-shirts today.

This guy was doing interesting drawings on tapa cloth.

The view from the ship.  The water in the port was so clear I could see fish from the wharf.

The day started with an amazing view from my bed.  This was the evening view as the sun set.  Notice how quiet the sea is.

February 27 - Crossing the International Date Line

I broke down and bought the ship's internet yesterday.  Partly because the price fell to a rate that didn't give me palpitations and partly because as we start visiting ports I've never been to before I don't want to spend limited port time on my computer.  So here I am, sitting in the Crow's Nest enjoying a panoramic view of the very calm sea.

Feel free to skip directly to the photos at the end.

Here are some random observations from the last couple of days.

• Yesterday I went to the Dive In for lunch.  I love their burgers and sweet potato fries more than I should.  As I waited for my food to be ready a gentleman asked if he could share my table.  We ended up spending almost two hours together, chatting over our burgers.
  
  Jim is a 90 year old widow from Las Vegas who has done five world cruises plus a LOT of other cruises and travel.  His stories were fascinating.  His dad was a career Navy officer and got Harry Truman to recommend Jim to the Naval Academy.  Wow.  He went on to tell me a story about a rowing competition.  He was on a team with Jim Lovell who went on to be Commander of Apollo 8.
  
  Jim went on to tell me stories about his career as an engineer in the Army Corps of Engineers and then for Boeing where he tested missile launches.  We also talked about his 57 year marriage and then chatted about child rearing and respect and the changes we've both seen over the years.
  
  It was a lovely couple of hours.  One of the things I really enjoy on this trip is talking to seniors who've lived such amazing lives and have wonderful stories to tell.  I'm going to steal one of Jim's lines - when asked what he does on such long cruises, his stock reply is "As little as possible."  He shares my view that it's nice that they have a variety of entertainment options but that doesn't mean you have to go to them.
• I hate elevators.  I've been stuck in elevators three times prior to this trip.  Once, on a Sunday morning, in a closed bank with no one else in the building (I worked there and was putting in some overtime).  Then on an elevator in San Francisco, between the 22-23 floors.  And one horrible time in Jamestown NY. 
  
  It was Superbowl Sunday and I'd met a couple guys on my flight in that morning and we met in the bar at our hotel to watch the game and drink some beer.  I left at half-time to go back to my room.  And got stuck in the elevator.  Do you know how long it takes to get an elevator repairman during the Superbowl?  It seemed very long since I'd had a couple of beers and had been heading to the bathroom.  I held it but set a land speed record getting to the bathroom once they finally had the doors open.
  
  The elevators on the Amsterdam seem to have problems.  It is not unusual to have at least one in a bank of four to be out of order.  This morning, the forward bank of elevators that I typically take had two of the four out of commission.
  
  Twice so far I've been "stuck" briefly in the elevators here.  Both times only lasted a few minutes but were scary.  The first time after I pressed the floor I wanted, the doors shut then all the floors lit up but the doors wouldn't open and we didn't move.  After a few minutes of me breathing hard and pressing the "door open" button repeatedly, the doors did open.  The second time I pressed the floor I wanted, the doors closed and we started moving but stopped at every floor but the doors wouldn't open.  The elevator finally took me back to deck 8, where I'd started and the doors finally opened.
  
  It always makes me happy to be on an elevator with someone carrying food and drinks.  At least if we get stuck we'll have sustenance. 
• Big news about breakfast in the Lido.  Seems they took the suggestion of a passenger to have a daily breakfast special.  I noticed the other day they had a plate on display with steak and eggs.  Yesterday was stuffed French toast.  I didn't pay much attention and didn't realize they were only there for that day.
  
  Today I sat next to a woman who was happily eating biscuits and gravy.  I had my standard fruit and shot of muesli.  She explained that the dish was the new daily special.  Dang.  Good for my diet but I LOVE biscuits and gravy.
• The ship celebrated Mardi Gras yesterday, in a very low key way.  They handed out bead in the Lido and MDR and had special lighting for a party in the Crow's Nest.  I didn't go so don't know what they did or how many people were there.  One of the bar servers and I were talking yesterday and she said after 8 p.m. there are typically only 10-15 people there.
• The flowers are back!  I've enjoyed all of the creative fresh flower arrangements around the ship (there were no fresh flowers on the Zuiderdam and Westerdam last year when I was on) so was very disappointed when suddenly all the large vases were empty.  Good news, new flower arrangements have appeared and they're beautiful.  A bit surprising that the theme seems Asian instead of Polynesian but who cares.
• Rumors are flying!  As the Corona Virus spreads, the speculation about the impact on our itinerary grows.  I can't imagine how challenging this is for HAL corporate.  One of the hot rumors is that we'll skip anywhere in/near Asia and instead spend more time in New Zealand and Australia.  Since we're due to arrive in New Zealand in a few days, they'll need to make the decision soon, if there's any truth to the rumor.
  
  I was at Guest Services today on my regular movie run and overheard a guest asking about what changes might be coming.  The official answer is that as soon as HAL in Seattle informs the Captain, he'll let us know.  As of now, we're continuing on our planned itinerary.
  
  The other rumor is that Orlando Ashford, HAL President is coming on board.  His wife, son and others have been on board since Ft. Lauderdale.  I'm guessing that he's a wee bit busy since the entire fleet is being impacted by the virus and their stock prices are tanking.  But, could be a good PR move since some of the most loyal passengers are on this ship.  Who knows?  I just know I'm very happy to not be the one making the decisions.
  
  Bottom line, it's out of my control and I'll be ok with whatever they decide is most prudent.
• Well, that's disappointing.  I just got a voicemail message from a stranger.  He's mad because I called him two days ago and hung up on him.  Except I didn't.  My guess is that one of the evil robocall companies is using my phone number to make their calls.  I did the same thing last year - called back the local number that had called me.  It was a very nice lady who had no idea her number was being used.  If you know of something I can/should do about it, please let me know.
• I'm off to lunch now.  Tomorrow is Tonga and I'm looking forward to a new country and seeing how it compares to Samoa since I almost ended up in Tonga as a Peace Corps Volunteer.
  
  Here are some photos.   Just kidding.  After trying to upload photos for a couple of hours, I give up.  I'll try again later.  Currently the internet is just too slow on the ship.

 

Took a minute to wrap my brain around this one.  Today is February 29 and Google says it's March 1, just to make things more challenging.

No Wednesday for me!

Sooooooo good.  I'm going to learn to make cappuccino mouse.

The flowers are back.  Ironic that they have a Chinese theme, given the virus situation.  Also interesting that we're deep into the South Pacific but no tropical flowers.

Everyone was talking about how calm the seas were all day.  Literally, all day.  Beautiful and happy we weren't under sail.

February 22, 2020 - Day 50 - Papeete Tahiti and Catching up on the Pacific Crossing

I can't believe I've been cruising for fifty days.  It is so different than being on a short cruise.  It's more like moving to a new, small town, where you are treated like royalty and the town happens to move.

The days tend to blur together, especially when you have a stretch of sea days.  Conversations often include phrases like "Yesterday...or maybe it was the day before.  Or was it last week?  Anyway, sometime after Antarctica..."  I'm not complaining, mind you.  Part of the joy of this cruise is the absolute luxury of doing as I like, when I like.  While I tend to have a routine, I also just do whatever I want, in the moment.  Yes, I do that at home, too but feel more "obligated" at home.  When you're at sea, who's going to complain because you stayed up reading until 3 am and choose to have breakfast in bed at noon?

We've been incredibly lucky on this cruise.  We have had virtually no rough seas.  A few days with big swells but they tend to be rhythmic which makes it easier to stand.  I still only shave my legs on port days, though, since I hang on when I'm in the shower, even when the seas are smooth.

Most on board were very excited to arrive in Easter Island.  Because the large swells there tend to make it hard to tender, passengers are only able to disembark there about 50% of the time.  We were in luck.  But it wasn't easy.  Because of the conditions and since I've been there I opted not try it and am glad I didn't.  I've seen a few people on crutches after tender mishaps and the rumors are that two crew were injured helping passengers.

It was a great decision to stay on board.  The ship was almost deserted so it was like having a private yacht for the day, with excellent views.

After a few more wonderful days at sea, we stopped for a few hours at Pitcairn Island.  Pitcairn is a very small, rugged and beautiful island inhabited by descendants of the crew of the Bounty.  Because of the rough conditions, there is no chance of accessing the island but instead, the island people come on board to sell their crafts and honey.

I promised my cabin stewards that I would buy them souvenirs so braved the crowds to buy a couple of magnets.  The way passengers were behaving, you would have thought they were giving away keys to heaven.  So crowded with some shoving and angry words.  I very quickly went to the first table, bought the magnets and left.

After our quick stop in Pitcairn it was back to more sea days.  3?  4?  Can't remember but they were each wonderful.

Today, a Saturday if you believe the rug in the elevator, we're in Papeete, Tahiti.  I've been here before and didn't want a tour but thought I might get a taxi to ride around for a bit before finding a spot with WIFI.

That changed a bit when I was leaving the port and fell.  I'm fine, although I'm guessing I'll be a bit sore tomorrow with some bruises on my scrapped knees.  I fell because the cobblestones were uneven and I was busy gawking at the scenery.  The bigger cause, though, was because when I get off the ship now, I get vertigo.  I experienced this on two cruises last year but since we had rough seas then I was hoping it wouldn't be an issue.  If you've experienced "landsickness" and have a cure, please let me know!

Anyway, after the group of very kind (and good looking) Tahitian men helped me up and gave me a place to sit to collect myself for a minute, I just walked a few blocks into town and went into the first cafe I came across.  "Do you have WIFI and may I use it?"  "Yes, of course."  "May I buy something to drink?"  "Certainly!"  "Can you accept USD?"  "Of course!".  I got an orangina (why is that not a big thing in the USA?) and being encouraged to sit anywhere in the small, very casual cafe, I logged on to the very speedy internet.

Then I saw the food at the next table.  A whole fish.  Since I'm still "moving" even though I'm sitting in a chair on land, I opted to just stay here instead of paying for a mini-tour.  My lunch of fried fish and a French baguette was delicious.  Gotta love having the server bring a container of freshly caught reef fish over so I could choose which size I wanted.  And only $14 USD for the drink and food.  Eating the deep fried reef fish with my fingers made me feel like I was back in Samoa.  But the best part?  Even though I'm right in town, not a single passenger in sight!

Some of the other patrons of the cafe where I'm typing this.  They've now been replaced by ship's passengers.

Lunch at the Gauguin Cafe in Papeete. Very casual, no view but fans, very friendly and accommodating staff.  Highly recommended.

We're not in South America anymore!

Locals performing by the ship, with a HUGE yacht in the background.

The yacht was too big to get in one photo.

My dessert yesterday.  They called it an alfajores (which is a kind of cookie in Argentina).  It was actually a flourless chocolate cake with dulce de leche and delicious.

The seas in the South Pacific have been very calm.

Lunch yesterday was salmon, veggies and fried zucchini.  We've been at sea for 50 days and I've lost 10 pounds.  Hurray for me!

Breakfast was a crepe, bacon and sausage.  Usually it's just oatmeal but this was a sea day treat.

I like this artificial sweetner.

I had lunch at the Pinnacle Grill for the first time ever the other day.  I started with a salad, then a filet with bleu cheese, scalloped potatoes and asparagus.  Normally $15 USD, I get a 50% discount because of my 4 star Mariner status.  Worth it.  No sea view but only a couple of other patrons and wonderful service.

It rained for about 30 minutes one day.  

A chocolate brownie with coffee  ice cream and caramel corn at the Pinnacle lunch.

Salad at the Pinnacle. 

This is my dinner about 4 days a week.  Cheese and dried fruit with Saltines.

The shopping was more like being in a Rugby scrum when the people from Pitcairn came onboard.  I was happier being upstairs.

The rugged terrain of Pitcairn.

My view of Pitcairn at breakfast

Jamestown, Pitcairn Island.  The mail truck comes every two months.  Imagine 60 people living here, in 9 families.  I couldn't do it.

The dock in Pitcairn

Dinner appetizers in the Lido the other night.  Duck pate.  Is it just me or does the plating look "suggestive"?

Today we got one for Tonga. 

Typical desserts at the Lido, available at lunch and dinner.  Plus, the ice cream station is open all day and evening.  Did I mention I've lost 10 pounds.  I've been working on walking off the desserts.

I had the ship to myself during our stay in Easter Island.

A tender, making the long trip to Easter Island.  A lot of the crew were late getting back from their breaks because it took over an hour to get from the island to the ship.

Easter Island

If you look very closely, there are several Moais on shore between the two sail boats.

Noon in the Lido.  Normally, it is packed.

Tandoori chicken and lamb vindaloo with garlic noodles.

It took 5 hours to get everyone from the ship to the island.  Although passengers were asked not to line up in the halls, this is what happened.

Because I was too chicken to take the tender, I just took photos from the ship of Easter Island.

Thunderstorms were predicted in Easter Island but all we got was a rainbow.

I've been loving my Fitbit but the no breathe band started to rot my arm.  It's healed now and I'll try again, wearing it looser.

Wine bottle from Chile, rose was a Valentine's gift from Holland America.  It's still looking good.

Every lunch and dinner there is a fish option and that's what I've been eating most.

All over the ship, the crew wore festive/cheesy outfits and handed out a variety of chocolate treats.

I got See's Truffles from my travel agent and these truffles from HAL.

And I thought no one would remember me on Valentine's day.

Fresh fruit for breakfast!

We got to give input on the 2022 world cruise itinerary.  HAL needs a new CIO, though.  This is a typical example.  The instructions were incorrect and they hadn't loaded the survey.  It took them five days to figure it out.  On the bright side, I put down a deposit for the cruise (which is almost sold out).  Whether or not I'll go will depend on price and the eventual itinerary.

This is what it's like at sea.  The view from my cabin.  I never get tired of it.