What Coup?

Ok, back to our regular programming.  No new news on the coup, so I'll just report on my first day in Bangkok yesterday.

First, let me say I love visa runs.  Myanmar requires that I leave the country every 70 days.  Then I can return and get a new visa.  That gets them an additional $50 visa fee every 70 days.  Works for them and works for me, since I get free airfare (furnished by AIS) to Bangkok.

Arriving in Bangkok is easy.  There's a direct, two hour flight from Mandalay to Don Mueang airport.  We arrived 30 minutes early at 2:35 p.m.  The plane parked a few feet from a jetway but as usual, we didn't use it.  Instead, we climbed down stairs and onto a bus.  We drove a few minutes and entered the terminal where we climbed a flight of stairs then trekked to immigration.  It only took a few minutes before I was collecting my luggage, exchanging money and walking through customs.  Less than 30 minutes after touching down, I walked out and snagged a taxi.

Traffic on the freeways was light.  I was watching for any signs of military rule.  I did see a group of soldiers on the other side of the freeway.  Five or six guys in uniform were standing near a military vehicle.  I think they had a flat tire.

Mark Owen, I thought of you while waiting to exit on Sukhumvit.

My room at Citypoint hotel.  Less  than $45 a night and lovely.

I'm not a big fan of the frosted glass windows that serve as bathroom walls but since I'm staying alone it's no issue.

The room is fairly small but has a large, comfortable bed.  It also has a mini-fridge and safe.

At the exit ramp to Sukhumvit we sat in traffic.  Then we continued to creep forward and wait...for about 45 minutes.  With no traffic it would have taken 5-10 minutes.  When we got close to the hotel I got out and walked.  It was faster.

When I checked in to the hotel, they recognized me.  It's the hotel where I stayed and had to check out to go to the hospital.  They were helpful then and now.  And, coincidentally put me in the same room.

I immediately turned on the air conditioning, television and internet, in that order.  I have television now but not as many channels.  I was very excited about having a high speed internet connection.  Lack of consistent internet is one of the greatest frustrations in Myanmar.  And when it's working, it's slow.

After enjoying some time with my room's amenities, I headed out.  First stop, bottom floor of Terminal 21.  I was happy to see a photo shop and got prints of my cleaning ladies/ESL students for them.  Next, Gourmet Market.

The market is much like being at a Whole Foods, just with more Asian products.  I eyed heads of lettuce and the salad bar.  But, I've been dreaming of tacos as my first meal.  What to do?  I continued shopping and picked up $60 (which filled two bags) of items I can't get in Mandalay.  Cocoa, rosemary, black olives, salad dressings, taco seasoning.

Next, upstairs to Sunrise Tacos.  I explained to the waitress that I just wanted to get something to go.  She remembered me and that I was living in Myanmar.  What a memory - this is a busy restaurant and I haven't been there for months.  Of course, every time I make a visa run I do have several meals there.

We chatted while my food was being prepared.  The owners (an American man and Thai woman) asked for my contact information.  Seems they are considering opening one of their restaurants in Myanmar and they're planning a visit soon to check it out.  Some of the staff at the restaurant are Myanmar.

I'm writing this as if its no big deal.  Inside, I'm doing a happy dance.  A good Mexican restaurant in Mandalay?  I will abandon my beloved Bistro Mandalay in a heartbeat.  My pay check will be dedicated to tacos and margaritas.  Que bueno!

My meal, by the way, was delicious.  Three crispy tacos with fresh salsa and sour cream and a salad.  Perfect.

My over-stuffed tacos and side salad.  Fresh and delicious.

It's 7:30 a.m. now on Friday.  I'm planning a day of massage and shopping.  And sweating, since even at 5:00 a.m. when I walked outside it was already humid and warm.  It will be a day of tough decisions.  Do I enjoy the honey-glazed duck at the nearby Chinese restaurant or do I go back to Sunrise Tacos?

Being in Bangkok During a Coup

Looking up Asoke (toward the National Convention Center) from near Sukhumvit.

Sukhumvit and Asoke at 5:05 a.m.

Light traffic at Asoke and Sukhumvit at 5:05 a.m.

Front page of the newspaper on May 23, 2014.

It's 5:40 a.m. on Friday, May 23, 2014.  It's quiet in Bangkok.  The military announced it was taking over the government of Thailand yesterday.  

I arrived in Bangkok from Myanmar yesterday about 3:00 p.m.  Traffic on the freeways was light but seemed even heavier than usual on both Sukhumvit and Asoke.  I saw a few soldiers on sidewalks but if I hadn't known differently, I would have assumed they were police doing their normal routines.

After checking in to Citypoint Hotel, near the Asoke BTS station, I went shopping at nearby Terminal 21.  The mall was crowded with shoppers and uniformed school kids.  My focus was on buying grocery items at Gourmet Market that aren't available in Mandalay rather than on the coup.

Leaving the mall at 6:30 p.m. I walked through the typically busy BTS/MRT interchange station at Asoke.  I have never seen it so busy.  It didn't help that people were stopping in their tracks to take cell phone photos of the crowds.  I just kept slowly pushing through the crowd, anxious to get back on the street.

I spent a quiet evening in my hotel.  It was clear there was something happening when the television stations began shutting down.  By 10:00 p.m., when the curfew began, there were only three television stations broadcasting anything but a screen which said "National Peace and Order Maintaining Council" along with symbols of what I assume are the very military branches.  BBC and CNN and a sports station (playing all tennis) are the only stations still broadcasting.  CNN just announced they are committed to stay on the air to let the people of Thailand know what is happening during this critical time.

The streets were eerily quiet during the night, although not deserted.  Nothing like normal traffic levels but I could still hear the sounds of cars, trucks and motorbikes from my hotel room.  

At 5:00 a.m. this morning when the curfew ended, I headed out to see what was happening.  The intersection of Sukhumvit and Asoke, very near my hotel, is one of the busiest in Bangkok.  Clearly, people had ignored the curfew to be out driving, but traffic was significantly lighter than normal.  

I saw no military.  I'm hoping that it will be business as usual today.  I plan to head to MBK to buy shoes and school supplies.  Fingers crossed that the military will follow through on keeping peace and remaining neutral as they try to sort out the political mess.