Being in Bangkok During a Coup

Looking up Asoke (toward the National Convention Center) from near Sukhumvit.

Sukhumvit and Asoke at 5:05 a.m.

Light traffic at Asoke and Sukhumvit at 5:05 a.m.

Front page of the newspaper on May 23, 2014.

It's 5:40 a.m. on Friday, May 23, 2014.  It's quiet in Bangkok.  The military announced it was taking over the government of Thailand yesterday.  

I arrived in Bangkok from Myanmar yesterday about 3:00 p.m.  Traffic on the freeways was light but seemed even heavier than usual on both Sukhumvit and Asoke.  I saw a few soldiers on sidewalks but if I hadn't known differently, I would have assumed they were police doing their normal routines.

After checking in to Citypoint Hotel, near the Asoke BTS station, I went shopping at nearby Terminal 21.  The mall was crowded with shoppers and uniformed school kids.  My focus was on buying grocery items at Gourmet Market that aren't available in Mandalay rather than on the coup.

Leaving the mall at 6:30 p.m. I walked through the typically busy BTS/MRT interchange station at Asoke.  I have never seen it so busy.  It didn't help that people were stopping in their tracks to take cell phone photos of the crowds.  I just kept slowly pushing through the crowd, anxious to get back on the street.

I spent a quiet evening in my hotel.  It was clear there was something happening when the television stations began shutting down.  By 10:00 p.m., when the curfew began, there were only three television stations broadcasting anything but a screen which said "National Peace and Order Maintaining Council" along with symbols of what I assume are the very military branches.  BBC and CNN and a sports station (playing all tennis) are the only stations still broadcasting.  CNN just announced they are committed to stay on the air to let the people of Thailand know what is happening during this critical time.

The streets were eerily quiet during the night, although not deserted.  Nothing like normal traffic levels but I could still hear the sounds of cars, trucks and motorbikes from my hotel room.  

At 5:00 a.m. this morning when the curfew ended, I headed out to see what was happening.  The intersection of Sukhumvit and Asoke, very near my hotel, is one of the busiest in Bangkok.  Clearly, people had ignored the curfew to be out driving, but traffic was significantly lighter than normal.  

I saw no military.  I'm hoping that it will be business as usual today.  I plan to head to MBK to buy shoes and school supplies.  Fingers crossed that the military will follow through on keeping peace and remaining neutral as they try to sort out the political mess.

Haircut in Bangkok

I've been very good about following doctor's orders.  It's in my own best interest to do whatever it takes to get better and get back to Mandalay.  I was very excited when he told me yesterday that I could walk a bit, as long as it didn't increase swelling or pain.

I didn't want to overdo but am getting a bit stir crazy.  Plus, after just lying around for almost two weeks, I need to get moving to get my energy back.

Luckily for me, I'm staying at the Dubliner Place on Sukhumvit, which is close to everything I need.  Yesterday I walked the 50 yards or so to a Chinese restaurant.  I was extremely happy with the quality of the food.  On my way back, I noticed a small beauty salon advertising full hair services.

Today, I decided to stop by and see if they could fit me in.  No problem, it was just me and two charming young stylists.  They seemed a bit surprised that I wanted a cut but were up for it.  The treatment started with a lovely shampoo.  About 15 minutes of head massaging.  Lovely.

Next I moved to the chair for the cut.  We started to discuss what I was hoping for.  I told them I wanted them to make me "look like her - young and beautiful" and I pointed to the woman holding the scissors.  Both ladies burst out laughing.  Seems they don't do magic.

She did do a fabulous cut, though, followed by almost 20 minutes of blow drying.  I love to have my hair blow dried.  Actually, I enjoy it almost as much as a good massage.  On the rare occasions that I can't get to sleep, I'd love to have someone on call to blow dry my hair.  Puts me out, every time.

It wasn't the biggest outing, but I enjoyed being off my back and out of my hotel room for an hour.  It was nice to have someone other than a doctor or nurse touch me, plus it didn't involve needles.  And, I look beautiful.  I hope that doesn't make my doctor want to keep me longer in Bangkok.  I'm really, really hoping he'll clear me to fly to Mandalay on Thursday.