Thursday, January 23 - Punta del Este, Uruguay- Day 20

After Rio, we enjoyed two sea days, my favorites.  I read, played Bananagrams, walked, read some more, played Word Trip on my phone and watched the ocean for hours.  Oh, and I ate.  My stomach seems to have synched with another passenger since 3 times in two days we were in the elevator going to the Lido for food.

In Punta del Este today.  Looks like a modern resort town with lots of beaches.  I wanted to see the Playa de Los Dedos (beach of the fingers), known for the giant statue that appears to be a hand reaching up from the sand.  But, we arrived at 7 a.m. and sail away at 2 p.m.  And because we're anchored so far from shore, it is a minimum of a 45 minute tender ride to shore each way.

Besides, I'll be getting off tomorrow in Buenos Aires and the next day in Montevideo - my two favorite cities in South America.  I'll be buying my fourth antique seltzer bottle in BA - I've bought one each trip there.  Not expensive and I love them.  Here's what they look like.

Here are some photos.  I'll take more as we sail away and add them from Buenos Aires tomorrow.

I can't get a photo that does justice to the small island we're anchored next to.

Punta del Este is larger than I expected, with a lot of highrises and huge beach resorts.

The beautiful island

MSC is stalking us.  I was hoping to see Ioane Asotasi because he's working on an MSC ship and we've been texting but they are doing the same ports here but a day later.  Talofai!

Breakfast of a crepe with lemon and some cantaloupe for breakfast with Punta del Este in the background.

This is why people say never be naked in your cabin.  I'd just gotten up and opened the drapes.  Luckily, I also threw on a robe because that's the roof of a tender that normally sits a couple of decks above me.  They lowered it for tendering.  Could have been a surprise for me and the guys on the boat.

I believe that breakfast delivered to me is one of life's great luxuries.  I order room service sometimes on sea days.  This was breakfast yesterday.  Yum.

Someone asked if I'm ready to go home since it's been 20 days, which for most, is a long cruise.  No.  And I suspect that I'll be no more ready to leave on May 12 than I am now.  I could live this way forever.... (or until they dragged me off because I ran out of money).

Why are People Cranky?

I had a moment this morning in the Lido.  No one offered to bring me water or tea when I sat down.  How rude!  I had to walk almost 30 feet to get it myself.  As I carried my cup and glass back to my table I thought about how many people made it possible for me to have such an array of food choices.  I haven't had to lift a finger for myself until the brutality of having to get my own water.  And, to be honest, if I were more patient (and less thirsty) someone would have brought it to me in a few minutes.

I thought about this as I sat looking out at the sea.  I've run into a few people having cranky moments.  Given the ages, I assume many are in pain or discomfort from a variety of ailments.  Or have other issues, perhaps having lost a spouse or other loved one recently.  Most seem to be having a grand time but a few seem grumpy when anything is not exactly to their liking.

I hope they will continue to enjoy the trip and remember that yelling at the nice woman who dishes out ice cream will not enable her to pull a rum raisin cone out of her ear if there is no rum raisin on board.

Speaking of cranky, I happened to be in the hallway as a group of cabin stewards was coming toward me, reporting ofr work.  All of them smiling.  I told them I thought we should have an occasional do it yourself" day when cabin stewards got to sleep in and we all made our own beds and cleaned our own bathrooms.  They thought it was a great idea but we doubt of HAL would go for it.  And it could cause the cranky people some heartburn.

Are All The Passengers Rich?

A couple of the delicious pastries available every day.

Yes, we are.  Born with golden spoons in our mouths.  Light cigarettes with $100 bills.  Just kidding.  Clearly to be on a cruise that starts at about $20,000 per person you have to have some money.  I talked to one woman who volunteered that she paid $100,000 for a promenade balcony cabin and her shore excursions.  Because of the single supplement the price for two people in the cabin would have been very similar.

When I did my first world cruise 19 years ago, I was still at the peak of my earnings.  Plus,, a client generously gave me a big discount.  And, another travel agency I worked with paid me to blog about my trip for their website. 

This time, no discounts.  But as my financial adviser pointed out, I'm not getting any younger.  I just talked to a couple who are on their first world cruise.  They view this as their once in a lifetime dream trip.  Yeah, that's what I thought after my first one. 

Some people do this every year and have for years.  They don't care what the itinerary is, this is just part of their routine.  I met a guy today who is doing his 20th world cruise.  Now, he doesn't bother to get off the ship much.  He just enjoys being on the ship and hanging out with friends who also do the cruise every year.

Most of the people I've talked to are similar to me in the sense that they worked hard all their lives, were diligent about saving and investing and were always reluctant to spend money.  Now they have a choice of spending it or leaving it to their kids.  One woman said she was a bit afraid to tell her soon she booked this trip.  Sh said when she called him she said "Honey remember when I told you that I didn't plan for you to inherit anything because I was going to spend it all?  Well, I just spent a big chunk."  She was glad he seemed genuinely happy for her.

There are a number of inside cabins on board and it seems that they are mostly booked by single passengers, since it's the cheapest way to go.  And some of the most frequent cruisers book the cheapest cabin.  For them, it's better to cruise more often, in a lower category stateroom.

It clear in talking to some folks that they have more money than most of us.  Not flaunting it, mind you.  But one consistent thing I've noticed is that we're mostly frugal.  Happy hour when you can buy 1 drink and get the second for $2 is very popular.  People will go to the bars and not order until happy hour prices kick in.  But the same couple who saved $6 on that happy hour drink are happy to spend $7,000 for an over-land shore excursion, each.  Like my dad used to say - watch your pennies and the dollars will take care of themselves.

On my first world cruise there were four retired teachers sharing an inside cabin.  I've stayed in inside cabins on shorter cruises and they were fine, with ample room.  Having two people would be tight.  Four?  If I was involved, someone would die  - probably me, killed for being annoying.

It didn't work out so well for the teachers.  There were rumors of a big fight, ears and physical stuff.  I don't know if that's true bur two women left early, even though they'd paid for the whole trip.  Two remained on board.

Bottom line, for the vast majority of people, there is no discussion of money and no sort of caste system of the haves and have nots.  We're all just excited to be able to do this amazing trip.

What Do People Wear on a World Cruise?

Like the passengers themselves, attire is varied.  Some passengers enjoy dressing up as part of the cruise experience.  Some don't.  Here are some tips:

• Wear layers.  It is impossible to keep the ship a constant temperature.  And each part of the ship can change from day to day.  My "uniform" is slacks or capris, a blouse or t-shirt and a loose, flowy jacket of some type.  Luckily I own a lot of them because I believe that loose flowy jackets are like having a super power that hides fat.  Please don't try to correct me on that.  When I'm contemplating a dessert I prefer to rationalize that my jacket will hide the indiscretion.  Jackets are way easier than going to a spin class.
• Fashion is in the eye of the wearer.  Typical attire during the day onboard is a t0shirt (often from a previous port), shorts and sandals or gym shoes.  I've recognized a couple of clothing items which makes me smile because I have them too.  Bought them at Sam's Club.
• Do people dress up?  Yes!  Some dress like they're going to high tea all day, every day.  Full hair and make up.  I enjoy seeing them and appreciate the effort.  But they're in the minority.  Most of us look about the same as we do running to the grocery store at home.
• What is "smart casual"?  There used to be formal nights, cocktail attire etc.  Now, it's either formal gala night or smart casual.  Smart casual means long pants, shirts/blouses that aren't t-shirts and shoes.  In other words, what you'd wear to a restaurant like Olive Garden rather than what you'd wear to the grocery store.  In the Lido, anything goes.  In the MDR, grocery store attire is fine for lunch but stepping it up just a smidge is typical at dinner.  Not required, however.
• Gala nights - formal attire.  You will see it all.  Some stay in their grocery shopping clothes.  Others spend all day preparing - long gowns, fancy hair and fresh manicures.  I love to sit in the Ocean Bar and watch the couples in their gowns and suits or tuxedoes stroll past on their way to dinner.
  
  The majority of women take my approach.  a sparkly top, slinky black pants and fancy sandals. The majority of men wear at least a sports coat on Gala nights but some opt for tie, no jacket.
• Should you wear your HAL bathrobe to dinner in the Lido.  No.  Never.  Just to clarify - robes are for your cabin, not the rest of the ship.  That is a hard and fast rule, just like the rule that you cannot wear pajamas and a robe on an airplane.  Sadly, that is just my rule and many Americans do not share my sense of decorum.  They are wrong.  Opinionated and judgey, aren't I?
  
  I'm happy to report that unlike on my recent trips on the Zuiderdam and Westerdam, I have not seen a single bathrobe in a public area.  And I bet not a single passenger wore pajamas on their flight to Ft. Lauderdale.  Depends, perhaps, but not pajamas.
  
  I have friends who do not share my views and believe that it doesn't hurt anyone else for people to wear whatever they like, wherever they are.  I believe it comes down to respect for yourself and others.
  
  To me, it's like bringing a baby to a fine dining restaurant.  I love babies and encourage parents to dine out.  But part of my fine dining experience is the atmosphere.  Quiet music, the sound of clinking silverware and wine glasses.  Not a screaming baby.  And the same with clothes.  If you want to roll out of bed and throw on yesterday's clothes that's fine.  But then please head to McDonalds, not a $100 a dinner restaurant.  Rant over.

Tips on Cruising on the Amsterdam

The bathroom has not changed in 19 years.

Body soap, shampoo and creme rinse dispensers.  I love the faucet - you set the temperature once and then just turn it off and on every day.  Wish I had one like it at home.

Plenty of towels.

Two hair dryers - this one and one in a drawer in the desk.  They both work fine but not great.  If I had thick long hair, I'd bring my own.

This mirror has seen better days.  The center is so worn it's not usable.

My $2 a day 'fridge.  Currently I have the champagne in it that I saved from embarkation day.  I plan to open it when we get to Antarctica.

I wish I could figure out a way to comfortably sit and enjoy the ocean just outside my window. 

Old school "dumb" tvs.  A few channels and you can go to Guest Services and rent a movie for free.  HAL tell me again why you're updating cabins AFTER your premier cruise?  C'mon, even I have a smart tv at home.

The only two outlets in the room.  One US style, one European style with two prongs.

Unfortunately, Holland America doesn't provide really detailed information about each ship, and if you're doing a long cruise it really helps to know what you need to pack.  So, here are some observations and opinions.  I'll be adding more as the cruise goes on.  If you have specific questions, just leave a comment and I'll do my best to get an answer.   FYI, I'm in cabin 1866 on Deck 1, an ocean view cabin.

• There are no motion sensor lights in the cabins. You can bring one on board.  I also brought battery operated candles with a remote.  Both are helpful in the middle of the night and the candles are great for atmosphere.
• There are two electrical outlets on the desk.  One is 220 and one is 110.  No USB ports.  You CANNOT bring your own adapter to provide more outlets but can get one from Guest Services for the entire trip, free.  Be sure to pack electrical adapters for charging your USB stuff.  There currently are no USB plugs.  That might change after this cruise, since the ship is being refurbished then.
• The bathrooms are very similar to the newer ships (except for finishes) but have no electrical outlet in the bathroom.  I charge my toothbrush on my desk.  Body soap, shampoo and cream rinse are in a dispenser in the tub/shower.
• Cabins below suite level do not have a mini-bar.  I rented a mini-fridge for $2 a day.  Doesn't take up too much space and I use it keep snacks. For example, sometimes I get a plate of the smoked salmon, herring, cheese, olives, etc from breakfast and have that as my dinner.
• I've been drinking the tap water from the bathroom sink for 16 days and am still alive.  It tastes fine and I'd bet the water they pour in the dining room and Lido is from the same source.
• Things are a bit more upscale than on my recent repositioning cruises on the Zuiderdam and Westerdam.  Things I expected and didn't get on those ships are back.  Orchids on every table in the Lido, with other fresh flowers everywhere.  Shrimp cocktail, salmon and NY steak are available every day.  The other night instead of going to the MDR, I opted to have my Gala dinner in the Lido.  I asked for a lobster tail.  The response was "Just one?  Maybe two?  And steak or prime rib?" 
• If, like my friend Heidi, you are a fan of prosciutto, you will find very little of it.  But tons of herring and other meats you'd like.
• Sundries in the store are very limited.  I recommend bringing all the OTC drugs and stuff with you.  I paid $4.50 on board for five disposable razors.  No cotton balls to be found.  So far, those are the only things I seem to have forgotten.
• There are no alarm clocks in the cabins.
• The passenger to crew ratio seems to be comparable to other ships.  19 years ago on the world cruise it was close to a 1-1 ratio.  Now, waiters, cabin stewards and bar staff are stretched thin.  No complaints about the service but the days of someone carrying your food to your table in the Lido are long gone.  They are doing a much better job in the Lido on keeping glasses filled and tables clean.  I've only seen one bar staff roaming the Lido at dinner (it was like spotting a unicorn) so if you want wine with dinner, bring your own.
• The in-room menu is the same as the rest of the fleet.  Since my September cruise, thought they've added a children's section.  How ironic is that on a ship where the average age is 112. It's great though.  The other night I got a hot dog, celery sticks and carrot sticks for dinner, from the kid's menu.  They also have chicken fingers, mac and cheese, salad and a PBJ.  All complementary.  If you order a hot dog from the Dive In room service menu it costs $4,95.  I don't know what the difference is but the one I had was great.
• Attire:  I'm dedicating a whole post to this one.
• People on this cruise don't decorate their doors.  I've seen 3 and two took them down a couple of days later.  It just isn't a thing like it is on short cruises or Disney cruises.
• There is a free sauna near the gym.  You check in, get a locker key and there is a nice shower area.
• There is a pickleball court.  And a track and a basketball court.  And a full gym with a lot of classes (some free, some not)
• There is a lounge just for Neptune suite cruisers.  No one has invited me but the door was open and it looks nice.  No views, but staff there to help and snacks always available.
• The Amsterdam is one of the few Dam ships to still have self-service laundry.  There are three on board, each with several washers and dryers.  I believe it is $2 a load, per machine.  There's also a n iron and ironing board in each laundry room.  You CANNOT bring your own iron on board.

Does Anybody Know What Time It Is?

Today's version of the When & Where flyer.

One of the downsides of traveling around the world is jet lag.  I've found that as I get older it takes me longer to recover.  Cruising makes it easier because instead of changing 12 time zones in one whack (which I had to do when flying to Asia), you change time zones an hour at a time, every few days.

We've lost two hours since leaving Ft. Lauderdale.  I hate losing time and look forward to heading west so we can start gaining an hour every few days.

Last night when I got back to my cabin, my cabin steward had already done turn down service.  This luxury includes tidying up the room/bathroom, turning down the bed, closing the drapes and leaving the next day's Where and When (which outlines the day's activities), a nightly piece of chocolate and tonight, the dreaded "Turn your clocks back" card.

A few minutes later, my cabin steward was at my door.  I was surprised and said "What, did you miss me?"  His immediate response was "So much!"  And, btw, the time change was an error.  We don't lose an hour tonight.

But then I checked the Where and When - it said to turn my clocks back.  Hmmm.  Mystery solved with a note left during the night from the Hotel Manager, apologizing for an "oops" moment.

In addition to trying to keep up with the time changes, I have other challenges.  Like a Las Vegas casino, the ship has no clocks.  I wear a FitBit (love it!) instead of a watch.  And use my phone as an alarm clock.  But, that stuff only works with access to cell or WIFI.  My phone, when we're out of range of signal, changes the date to September 23, 2019 at 3:44 p.m.  I'm guessing that's when the SIM card was installed.  The FitBit updates time when connected to internet.  I'm researching now how to manually change it.

Bottom line is that I frequently don't know what time it is, while on board.  I don't mind since I rarely attend any of the scheduled activities.  Actually, HAL could save a lot of money by eliminating all the activities.  Comedians, singers, dancers, lecturers would all be unemployed, if I had my way.  And while we're at it, let's cut back the numbers of ports.  How about just stopping to top up the gas and food situation.  And liquor, of course.  I still think the best part of cruising is just being at sea, watching the ocean.

Sunday and Monday, January 19-20 --Rio de Janeiro

Today I did a tour in a giant open air Jeep. Not what I expected but fun and I got to see quite a bit of Río.  I'll be adding photo captions and more posts before we head out to sea tomorrow evening.

If you want to ignore all the blah, blah, blah, skip down to the photos.

Ok, now it's Monday, January 20, 2020.  It is grey and overcast today so opted to not take the helicopter ride.  Instead, I'm staying on board and playing with my blog, along with calling and texting friends while I have phone service.

Yesterday I took a HAL shore excursion titled Tijuca Rain Forest Tour in a 4X4.  We left the ship at 9:15 a.m. and walked over to a parking structure a couple of blocks away.  There about 38 of us and we fit into four vehicles.  I lucked out and was offered a seat with the driver in the front.  (Hey Mary Lou, remember in Guatemala when we took the truck taxi and you were in the back with the chickens while I got the front?  You know parking karma?  I have front seat karma).

I wasn't sure exactly what we'd be doing but assumed it would involve going off-road in the aforementioned forest.  The tour information mentioned sloths and monkeys. 

No.  Instead we drove through Rio, through downtown and past Cococabana and Impanema.  We passed a large lake with biking and running trails, exercise equipment, dog parks and lots of people exercising and enjoying the Sunday morning. 

We went through a lot of very, very long tunnels.  If you are uncomfortable with tunnels this is NOT a city for you.

Then we headed up.  It seems the forest, which is a government park, is over 7500 acres and it's on a mountain.  The drive up to the first overlook was great.  Cool, shady and beautiful greenery.  The only way we'd see a sloth or monkey, though, would have been if they had been riding one of the many bicycles we passed.

We reached the Chinese Scenic Point, which has a pagoda shaped area near the incredible views of Rio and the Ocean.  And, Christ the Redeemer.  Sadly, the foggy, overcast day was not the best for photos but still amazing.

From there, we headed to another part of the park and another photo opp.  This time, it was a waterfall. A lovely waterfall which seemed very popular with the locals.  We hung out there for awhile.  When people came back from taking photos the grumbling began in earnest. 

It seems we were originally supposed to make a stop to do a bit of hiking through the woods to see the sloths and monkeys.  Some people in another vehicle said they had mobility issues and didn't want to do the hiking.  So someone, either the tour operator or one of the HAL staff with us decided to change the itinerary, mid-tour.  Some weren't happy about it.  We made a last stop at a pond with koi and turtles.  Frankly, I can walk out my front door and see something similar.  The guides said they once saw an alligator!  Yeah, I live in central Florida.  Seeing an alligator to me is about as exciting as seeing a dog.

Anyway, we stayed there longer than needed to kill time since we didn't do the walk.  More grumbling. 

Based on some of the grumbled comments it seems that some are very sensitive about people not paying attention to the mobility requirements on excursions.  I agree that if you are on a walker perhaps a 4X4 ride and jungle trek might not be your best choice.  Please check BEFORE the tour to ensure you can safely participate.  On board I've heard more grumbling about earlier tours, mostly about fellow passengers who are either unable to keep up or don't pay attention to time constraints.  So far we've left port late twice because of delays on shore excursions getting back.

And if you are on a tour and they're doing something that you can't easily do, sit it out.  I think HAL made the wrong call on this one by making an arbitrary decision in the middle of a tour but I didn't care.  I still saw Rio, a beautiful nature area and amazing views.  And now I know what the corn plant I keep on my front porch would look like if I planted it in Rio - huge!

Military building, complete with ceremonial cannons.

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We took turns taking photos of each other.  This tour could easily be done in a mini-van since we never left the tarmac.  The fresh air was nice but getting in and out of those trucks is a challenge.

I assume the Rio roads are a bit more crowded when it's not Sunday.

The sign said it was a river.  Really?

This is part of a HUGE soccer stadium.  Like most buildings we passed it was in serious disrepair.

Graffiti, murals, art?  Everywhere.

In the Tijuca area.  Straight ahead is one of the many favelas (slums) around Rio.

15 minutes from the slums is the Tijuca Forest.

See the turtles?  Some of the passengers were so excited, bless their hearts.  I need to invite them to Blue Springs State Park

Love the flowers on this tree.

Typical street.  

We were told not to take the stairs.

Fallen trees in Tijuca.

A church.  The cross might have given it away.

Lots of old VWs in Rio.

A picnic area.  These folks were barbecuing and it smelled wonderful.

The waterfall.

When they put the tour number, they weren't thinking about the view of whoever was sitting in front.  The driver took this off after our last stop.  LOL.

Fancy entrance to the park.

The Chinese look out.

That's Ipanema beach on the right.  Six foot waves!

Christ the Redeemer

As I was taking photos I noticed a mom and her two grown sons taking photos of themselves with the view in the background.  I offered (pantomime) to take a photo of the three of them.  I did, they thanked me in Portuguese then the mom gave me a long hug and kiss.  Have to say I'm a fan of the hugging and kissing culture.

Those are trees with white flowers.

More slums.

The entrance gate to a private home.

They were having a church service.

Can you see the two hang gliders?  Those people are NUTS!

Fancy new building with condos for sale.

View as we drove past the busy beach.

Lots of parks and each has exercise equipment.

One of many stores to buy houseplants.

The beach.  They turned the other side of the road to a pedestrian way.  Lots of joggers and walkers.

I wish we could have stopped at a local restaurant like this.  Several had huge ovens doing rotisserie chickens.