More Photos of Armenia

As we drove out of Yerevan (a lovely, cosmopolitan city), I wasn't too impressed with the landscape.  Malawi was much more beautiful.  But then we drove a few more kilometers and the terrain began to change.  Here are more photos of our tour to Khor Virap, Noravank and Areni.

Climbing up to Khor Virap

Denise at Khor Virap.  If she looked straight ahead, she'd be looking at Turkey and Mt. Ararat.  Because of the long-standing issues with Turkey, the border is closed and you can't cross from Armenia to Turkey.

A herd of sheep slowed our drive a bit as we left Khor Virap (about 45 minutes out of Yerevan) to drive to Noravank.  We climbed to a much higher and cooler elevation to Noravank.

It is traditional to release doves at Khor Virap, as Noah did after the flood.  This is believed to be the cradle of all civilization, since only those on the ark survived the flood.

From Khor Virap, facing away from Turkey - looking down on a cemetery.

The terrain began to change as we climbed toward Noravank

Denise and I met in Samoa.  We both lived in northern Arizona.  We agreed that these red rocks reminded us of there.

The weather at Noravank was cool, a bit drizzly and perfect.  The setting is remarkably peaceful and beautiful.

A few rain drops didn't put a damper on  our enjoyment of the beauty of the place.

The great thing about travel is the opportunity to meet amazing people and make  friends who get your passion for experiencing the world.

Photos don't do justice to the panorama.

Yeah, it's a monastary, but where tourists go, Coke and vending machines are sure to be there.

We stopped for lunch on our way back towards the winery at Areni.  Traditional (and delicious) Armenian food.  Beef shish kebab, grilled potato slices, cucumber/tomato salad (I've never tasted sweeter tomatoes than in Armenia).  You can barely see the slices of fresh cheese that you put with the fresh herbs on lavash bread for a wonderful treat.  The herbs included tarragon, basil, dill and something I didn't recognize.  Lunch, which included water (still or gas) and tea or coffee, was less than $7.  That's at a touristy tour bus restaurant.  Lunch was served open air, next to a river.

The world is a beautiful place.  This is in Areni.

After the 8 hour tour, Denise went to yoga and Otis and I strolled a few blocks from their apartment to Republic Square to watch the nightly fountain display and listen to the music.  Note that it's just getting dark.  It was 8:45 p.m.

Lots of people (most seeming to be locals) enjoyed the beautiful evening along with us.  I predict that Yerevan is going to be the next hot tourist destination, with prices rising dramatically.

Tour of Southern Armenia

On Monday, we took a tour with Hyur Services.  They did a great job and we saw beautiful countryside and fascinating monasteries.  The wine tasting was a nice way to end the day.  Here are some photos:

First stop:  Khor Virap.  A beautiful and historically significant monastery and also close to the Turkish border.  It is the closest you can get to Mt. Ararat in Armenia.  Sadly, clouds covered the top of the mountain.

The main chapel at Khor Virap.  I prayed there.  That I wouldn't have a heart attack after climbing all the steps to get there.

The cell where St. Gregory was imprisoned for 13 years.

Wild flowers at the Noravank monastery.  Set in among skyscraping red rocks.

Thousands of stone carvings depicting symbols of Christianity were placed in Armenia.  They are both gravestones and messages of salvation.

Noravank

In addition to red wines, Areni Valley specializes in cherry, apricot, pomegranate and peach wines.  I liked apricot the best.  It was tough having to taste them all but I felt it was my duty. 

We expected a tour of the winery to see how the wines were made but just got the tasting.   We drank one of the reds we bought with dinner this evening.

Rolling Stone

I still have so much to say about Malawi and my time there, along with photos to share.  But that will have to wait.  I left Blantyre, Malawi last Thursday.  I spent the night in Lilongwe and on Friday morning I went to the airport to start my trip that went from Lilongwe to Lusaka Zambia to Nairobi Kenya to Amsterdam Netherlands to Paris France to Yerevan Armenia.  I arrived at 8:00 p.m. on Saturday night in Yerevan just in time to see a spectacular sunset over Mt. Ararat.

After a brief visa issue, I made it through immigration and customs and emerged to see my friend Denise, waving and smiling.  It's been all smiles since.

I'll be filling in details, but for now, some photos.  As you can see, I'm loving Yerevan.

At the weekly art/crafts/rugs/food market in Yerevan I saw a woman selling something.  Had to try it.  Nuts are strung on a thin string, then dipped in a fruit syrups (cherry, strawberry, plum, tomato, etc.) until the nuts have a thick coating similar to a fruit roll up. OMG good.

Republic square

It may be a developing country but it's developing rapidly and has all the comforts a pampered pooch could ask for.

At the local market.  Sushi and a huge bowl of caviar.

My friends Otis, Denise and Irie.  Denise worked for Peace Corps in Samoa, where I met her.  Now, she's working for Peace Corps Armenia.  I love the whole family!

Dinner Sunday night was a mix of veggie salads, caviar, olives, marinated chilis and steak.

Smoked fish at the grocery store.  Huge variety of foods (and lots of cheese!) and all very inexpensive, compared to the US.

Trash or Treasure

Like many Americans (and others), I've been blessed to always have more than I need.  Not more than I want necessarily, but more than I need.

Don't get me wrong, I wasn't born with the proverbial silver spoon.  As an adult I've had times when I've contemplated an empty cupboard and a day or two of "popcorn diet".

But I've never experienced real need.  I've always had a buffer.  I knew that if push comes to shove I have family and friends who would come through for me.

Living in Samoa and now Malawi, my eyes have been opened wider  about what it's like to live with very little.  I told a friend in the USA about a Malawian friend who lives on about $10 week.  My USA friend responded with shock and dismay, indicating that he is hard pressed to live on $1,000 a week.

Part of the difference is in pricing.  Prices in Malawi, relative to US prices are very low.  I am not going to be happy being back to paying full freight after my time here.  I'll also be very conscious about how I spend money.  My dad, who some would call frugal and others cheap, would approve.

Part of the difference is also in expectations and "needs".  Electricity - is it a need or a want?  Same with running water.  Food is about eating to live, not living to eat.  Do you really need to spend a quarter for the minibus?  Walking may take longer, but it is free.

For most of my life I have been guilty of wasting food.  Buying too many fruits and vegetables for example, and having to discard them as they start to go bad.  I quickly learned here that things I was ready to trash were of value to others.  Glass bottles (not deposit) could be sold or reused.  Fruit and vegetables that I deemed too far gone, were still good when other's looked at them.

I've been dividing my trash.  The "real" trash (egg shells, potato skins, etc.) goes in the trash bag.  Plastic and glass bottles are placed next to the trash.  Any food that might be deemed still usable is placed in a bag separately.  A quarter loaf of bread, for example, that is 2 days old, but since I was leaving for a couple of days and wouldn't be eating it,  went into the "have at it" bag.  Sometimes I just leave a note "Help yourself to the XYZ in the refrigerator."

Today, I put 3 oranges in the "have at it" bag.  I knew that I wouldn't be eating them before I left and rather than letting them go to waste, I put them in "the bag".

Today was a holiday.  I was working anyway, so not in my apartment.  I wasn't surprised when I got home to discover that my apartment hadn't been serviced.  Everybody deserves a holiday.

I had to laugh, though, when I realized the oranges I'd put out in "the bag" this morning were gone.  I'm glad they've gone on to a good home.

Music and Leaving

The last few days I've had a several songs that have been a mental soundtrack to my life.  "Leaving on a jet plane"  "Last dance"  "And now you're gone, gone gone".  The music world abounds with songs about leave takings.  Saying goodbye to someone you love.  Saying goodbye to something you love.  Saying goodbye to a finished chapter in your life.

I'm not good at goodbyes.  And I hate extended goodbyes.  That was hard in Samoa.  It was like pulling off a band-aid, one millimeter at a time.  It was slow and painful.

Leaving Malawi is easier.  I've been here three months, not 26 months.  I like the friends I've made here and hope to stay in touch, but I haven't had time to learn to love them and for them to have become woven into my life.

And leaving is coming so quickly.  I'm pooped because of the level of work and activities the last few weeks and am ready for a vacation, but it's also been a good distraction.  I suspect it won't really hit me until I'm cooling my heels in the Lilongwe airport, waiting to take the bus out to the plane.

There was a moment last Saturday, when I said goodbye to Paul's family.  Luckily, his kids didn't really understand that it was the last time we'll probably be together.  To them, it was just "see you later" as they hugged and kissed me.

I should be packing right now.  I hate packing. It's not really that hard nor that time consuming, but I build it to epic proportions in my head.  I've actually already done the tough part of packing - in my head.  My big suitcase will carry souvenirs, gifts and the clothes I brought and never wore (it does NOT get cold enough in Malawi for winter clothes).  One roll aboard bag will hold the clothes/gifts for my visit to Armenia.

The other roll aboard will carry my computer, a change of clothes, toiletries/drugs and my airplane necessities.  They include a small down throw which was a Christmas gift years ago (thank you, G &V!) and is great on chilly planes.  Mr. Kindle, of course, to keep me amused with reading and games during layovers.  Noise cancelling head phones which make a HUGE difference.  After going through two sets of Bose (expensive) head phones, I found a pair for this trip which were $79 and very close to Bose performance.  They're made by AblePlanet.  I'll also have my sleep mask, hand lotion and saline nasal spray.  Yes, I've got this flying thing down to a science.

I don't want to leave Malawi.  I really like it here.  But I'm ready to be home for a bit, spend time with friends and make some money.

If you know of a job for a "young at heart" woman with consulting, teaching and volunteer experience, keep me in mind.  Currently I'm eyeing an open position for assistant manager at the Taco Bell in Lake Mary.  Close to home, not the head honcho and I'm guessing I'd get all the free tacos I could eat.  Could be a dream job.

Busy!

I just responded to a friend's email.  He asked the simple question:  "When will you be back in Orlando?"  Instead of just saying "May 24", I gave him my schedule for the next few weeks.  I thought I'd share it with you.

It's a busy, busy time - filled with good stuff.

May 6-7- interviewing new consultant candidates.  16 of them.  Grueling for them and me!

  

Wed/May 8 - Skype with Scotland (parent agency) and travel to Lilongwe - five hour drive); 

Thurs May 9 - facilitate meeting with government, donors, business owners and a new govt agency to help them focus on their direction;

 Fri May 10 - 5 hour drive back to Blantyre.  

Sat, May 11 - spend the day with Paul and his family.

  

Sun May 12 - Pack and prepare for the training the next week.

 Mon- Tues- Wed May 13 - 15 - teach Consulting Diploma course for consultant trainees

Thurs May 16 - 6:00 a.m. bus to Lilongwe, relax for evening in hotel

Fri May 17 - leave for airport at 6:00 a.m.

Sat. May 18 - arrive in Yerevan Armenia at 8:30 p.m. after visiting Zambia, Kenya, Amsterdam, Paris

Sun. May 19 - Thurs. May 23 - enjoy time with Denise, Otis and Irie and explore Armenia!

Fri. - May 24 - Depart Yerevan at 6:00 a.m.  Visit Paris, Detroit and arrive in Orlando at 8:30 p.m.  In Lake Mary at 10:30.  In shower at 11:00.  In bed at 11:30.  In a coma at 11:31.

Sat. May 25 - Grocery shop, clean the house and be at airport at 8:30 pm. to greet friends arriving from Michigan and New Jersey - also PCVs/Samoa

Sun. May 26 - hosting barbecue/pot luck/pool party for 12 friends

Sat. June 1 - 7:00 a.m.  friends depart.

Sat. June 8 - 1:00 hosting barbecue/potluck for about a dozen RPCVs from Central Florida - it's a group that just formed when I was leaving so am anxious to connect and make some new friends.  Ages range from 20's to 50's.  Mix of male/female/married/single.  

Mon. June 10 - get serious about job search, if I haven't gotten a call from Cape Town by then.  My fingers are still crossed!

Time to Leave Malawi

One of the many monkeys hanging around at the Sanctuary Lodge in Lilongwe where I facilitated a Team Building Workshop recently for a group of scientist who provide vaccines in East Africa for cattle

It's been too long since I've posted.  I've been busy, traveling for work and then just chilling when I have free time.  I've also been busy looking for work via the internet and doing the stuff needed to make sure my transition home will be as smooth as possible.

Overall, I can't believe that in less than two weeks I'll be leaving Malawi.  Sounds trite but it does seem as if I just arrived.  But there are small things that make me realize I've been here for awhile.  Some of the vegetable vendors call me by name now.  The guys who sell bananas at the corner near my apartment wave and smile when I drive by.  I am comfortable driving in Blantyre, a task which was anxiety inducing for the first few weeks.  I feel as if I've gotten the hang of the balance of defensive and aggressive driving needed to survive in Malawian traffic.

I can tell you where to get the best/least expensive local food (NJamba - 750 MK for rice, pasta, potatoes or nsima; 1 meat; two veg); best vegetarian Indian (Veg Delight on Glyn Jones road - try the Dhal Puri - unique and awesome); best bakery (Gelato Carnival); etc, etc, etc.

I've made friends, which will make it harder to leave.  The other day at work, my work neighbor at the next desk asked if I was excited about leaving.  I told him the truth.  I'm looking forward to seeing friends in Armenia and being home but will be sad to leave Malawi.

I'm equally excited and terrified by going through another door in my life.  Entering a new phase is always stress-inducing and exciting.  While I would like having something firm lined up for work, the current situation gives me an opportunity to consider what I really want to do.  How I can best contribute.  What adventures are available to me.

Because I've had the privilege so many times to leave one phase and enter a new one, I'm confident that something good is around the corner.  At those moments (which usually occur at 3:00 a.m.) when I worry about  financial security for my elder years, I'm comforted by the moment I had at Lewonde National Park.  It was early on a Sunday morning.

I was on a driving game safari on a cool, clear morning with the game guide and another couple of tourists.  We were all quiet and content to slowly drive through the bush, spotting herds of impalas, troops of baboons and the occasional wart hog.  We'd just spent a few minutes watching the sun coming up over the Shire river, watching and listening as the hippos strolled into the water and started swimming and bathing.

I felt such a complete sense of peace and contentment while at the same time knowing with absolute certainty that something amazing and wonderful and possibly totally unexpected will come next.  That feeling and belief has stayed with me.

Yes, preparing to leave Malawi is bittersweet.  But I'll be too busy with work my last days here to have much time to fret.  And next week, my last weekend, my friend Paul, along with his wife and kids, will join me for another fun day of jungle gym and junk food at Gelato Carnival.

Then I'll deliver some final training and start the 56 hour trip to Armenia where I'll have five days with wonderful, fun friends I met in Samoa.  After another 20+ hour trip, I'll be home in Florida.  Ready to settle in and look for the next adventure.

My room at the Sanctuary Lodge.  I've had all the creature comforts I could ask for in Malawi.

One of the team building participants - if a team member "faulted" in one exercise, they had to dance as a penalty.  A good time was had by all.

A cloudy ride on the bus heading back to Blantyre.  There are always people by the side of the road for the entire 300+ km trip.