Mid Service Conference is "Uma" - Over!

This terrific photo was taken by another volunteer but is exactly what I see in church each Sunday.  I also wear a white puletasi and a white hat.  This week a toddler was being led into the church by his big brother when he saw me.  My Samoan garb didn't fool him.  He stopped dead in his tracks when he saw me.  As he was dragged forward, he gave me a wide berth, much as you would do a dangerous wild animal.

I’m back home after five days in Apia, attending our last training until Close of Service Conference, which will be held in September.  

The training was good and most of the group were in good spirits.  The highlight of the week for me was dinner at our Country Director’s house.  Lusi, his wife, is an awesome cook and made a feast of Thai, Indonesian and other Asian dishes.  Spicy and flavorful, something I can’t say about Samoan food.  For dessert she made a tiramisu that was incredibly rich along with an orange cake, still warm from the oven.  I enjoyed meeting Lusi and eating her food so much that I asked if she’d teach me to cook Asian (she’s Indonesian) and she agreed.  I’ll be going back to Apia in a couple of weeks to join 2 other volunteers in Lusi’s kitchen.  I’m hoping this is the start of a cooking club where we can rotate kitchens and learn new dishes.

PC gave me a ride to the wharf to head back to Savaii.  The reason for that was that since all of us were coming back at one time, it was deemed safer to just haul us all in the PC van.  But, since everyone else from my island decided to stay in Apia for the weekend, I got a lift from the PC driver in the PC truck.  It was a good opportunity for me to spend an hour chatting with a middle-aged Samoan man.   I know a lot of Samoan men but it isn’t appropriate for me to have lengthy conversations with them.  If I’m seen talking to a man there are immediately rumors and speculation that I’m either sleeping with him, planning to marry him, or both, so I just steer clear. 

I’ve tried chatting with the driver before but he’s usually reluctant to talk.  On Friday, he was a chatty Cathy and it was interesting to hear his perspectives on life in Samoa vs. New Zealand (where he lived for four years); family and what is important in life.  That included children, church and sex.    I also enjoyed not being squashed into the bus in a torrential downpour which means all the windows would be up.  Imagine full-body contact with a room full of damp strangers in a sauna. 

The ferry ride home was wet but much smoother than my ride to Upolu on Monday.  That was the first time I’ve gotten sea sick on the ferry.  Didn’t urp on the boat but after the hot bus ride, lost my cookies when I got to the hotel.

My bags weighed a ton going home but I was doing fine rolling them toward the ferry until I encountered a huge puddle.  As I was shifting my backpack and trying to put down the handle of my roll-aboard, a young Samoan man offered to help.  He grabbed my big bag and carried it on board to the luggage storage space.  When I was getting off the ferry, he made a point of waiting for me by the luggage so he could carry the bag off the boat for me.  That’s the friendly, helpful fa’asamoa that I love.

I splurged and took a taxi home from the wharf in Salelologa.  When I arrived there was much yelling and waving.  One brother, who didn’t make eye contact with me for the first six months I lived here, let alone talk to me, came over to say he missed me.  The ice has thawed and I am part of the family.  Sort of like the odd old aunty who lives in the guest house out back.

I went to the market with one of my brothers on Saturday.  He was my Sherpa and carried everything I bought, which was a lot.  To give you an idea of what I eat, here’s what I bought on Saturday:

carrots, cabbage, a pineapple, avocados, mangos, oranges, potatoes, onions, lobster and a whole tuna.  For a PCV, lobster is expensive ($25 tala for 1 large/1 small lobster).  But since it would have cost me about $50 USD for the same amount of lobster in the States, I figure I might as well enjoy it now.  The tuna was a small one and cost $20 tala.  That’s $10 USD for a whole tuna.  It was a gift for my family.  They ate it raw and didn’t share.  A small piece would have been nice, since there are few things tastier than raw tuna with soy and wasabi.

The bus was crowded with back-to-school shoppers as we headed home from the market but my brother wanted to go for a ride so we passed our compound and stayed on the bus for another 45 minutes as we drove on to Pua Pua before turning around and heading back to Faga.  The last 45 minutes of the ride was stellar since the bus was almost empty and the views are spectacular.  I am still awed every time I enjoy the views of the lagoon.  From my village, all the way to Pua Pua there are houses on one side of the road and beaches, palm trees and gorgeous views of the turquoise lagoon on the other side. 

This morning I went to church for the first time in almost two months.  Between vacation and time in Apia I haven’t been around on Sundays.  Except for one and it was rainy and cool and I was lazy so I slept in.   It was my first time in the new church (up until now we’d been having services in the open fale that serves as a fellowship hall.)  The church is the most beautiful I’ve seen in Samoa.  Very large with crystal chandeliers and a built in sound system.  Nice pews made of what looks like pine. 

As I walked to church this morning my celebrity status was confirmed.  One family of kids went crazy.  about 8 pre-schoolers  yelled my name and ran along-side the road to catch up with me.   What could be more exciting than seeing the Pisi Koa go by than to have her actually wave and say hello?  I arrived at 8:55 a.m. for the 9:00 a.m. service.  We actually started about 9:20.  While waiting a nice middle-aged man came over to chat and keep me company.  He’s a matai (chief) in the village and I’ve run into him at several events.  Others watched us chat.  I’m sure I’ll hear speculation about our marriage plans tomorrow at school.

I walked home with a friend my age.  She filled me in on the gossip.  Many of her relatives from Australia were visiting.  I had to laugh when one of the teenagers from Australia asked to take my picture.  Yup, being a palagi in a puletasi in a Samoan village is photo worthy.

This weekend is ending on both sweet and sad notes.  When I said goodbye to my Year 8 kids after church I wished them well.  They’re now Year 9 and will be attending college, starting tomorrow.  I’ll miss them a lot.  Also, my favorite brother is heading off to University in Apia tomorrow.  I’ll miss him, too.   I plan to savor the next months.  I suspect they’ll fly by. 

It’s now Sunday night and I’m watching a very Samoan tradition – hair cutting.  Boys are required to have hair short enough that you can’t grab any.  During vacation, boys in my family grew out their hair and many bleached some or all of it.  Tonight, they’re getting ready for the first day of school.  Buzz cuts all around.  I offered to do the cutting but for some reason they declined.  Perhaps it was my maniacal laugh.

Things I Missed From Samoa

Samoa is home to me now, and like any time I leave home, there were things I missed.  They include:

·       My house.  It’s not fancy but it’s home.  It has all my stuff just the way I want it.  On vacation I stayed in 11 different places in 3 weeks.  Too much moving around.  I like knowing where my underwear and toothbrush are at all times.

·       My family.  They are a big, boisterous group and this morning I was ready to whack my big brother whose alarm went off every five minutes for 45 minutes, starting at 6 a.m.  But they are the ones who I live with.  They know me best and put up with me, good and bad.  If I need something, they’re there.

·       Having people call my name.  Yes, I said I missed anonymity in the previous post and yes, I actually would like to have my cake and eat it too.  Coming back into the village the day I arrived back on the island, one of my kids blew me a kiss.  Others yelled and waved.  I’ve run into women in the market, on the bus and on the street who kiss and hug me and ask when I got back.  Yeah, I missed that.

·       The post office.  I check my mail once a week, usually on Tuesdays when we get mail from Apia.  There is one employee.  She knows me and can tell me without looking if I have mail or not.  I’ve never had to wait more than five minutes.  I dread having to go back to the Lake Mary post office where I always have to wait a minimum of 30 minutes.

·       The sea.  Donna said she agreed that all of Savaii is beautiful but that the most beautiful beach and lagoon is in my village, across from my house.  I like hearing the low roar of the waves hitting the distant reef as I fall asleep.  I like watching the rain move in over the ocean. 

·       The laughter.  Samoans like to laugh.  Young and old alike.  I’ve spent much of the week working on my computer and there is an almost constant sound of laughter and singing.  There is a big group of kids visiting with their families for a funeral and they spend the days playing with the local kids.  And giggling.  Granted, at 10:30 last night when they were giggling as they ran around my house I was ready for some silence, but at least it was laughing, not sirens, car horns or shouts of anger.

·       The feeling.  I’m not changing the world here in Samoa.  There won’t be headlines when I leave.  No parades.  But I know that I’m touching a few, in a small way.  I’m giving back as a way to repay all that I’ve been given over the years.  It’s a good feeling.  When I’m travelling/living in palagi land, my life tends to be a selfish and self-centered existence.  I like the feeling that I’m doing something bigger and better than myself.

Things I Miss From Palagi Land

I’m happy to be home.  Really, I am.  I’ve been busy working on a couple of projects and getting my house in shape.  In addition to cleaning out a ton of bugs and detritus from ants, spiders and termites, I’ve also been organizing.

I repacked the palagi/warm clothes I used in New Zealand.  I tried to explain to members of my family why I wear different underwear in Samoa than other places.  In a word – I wear the coolest, breeziest undies here, which means boxers.  Abroad, where there’s air con and cool air, I wear much more feminine stuff.

With the help of two of my brothers I also rearranged my furniture.  I’ll post photos soon.  I moved the bed so I don’t have to crawl into a small space every night to attach my mosquito net and again in the morning to make the bed.  Plus, now when I sit on my bed to read, work, etc., I’m not facing the open door, on display for everyone to see.  Now my forward view is of my family’s toilet.  So far I haven’t really noticed comings and goings but if anyone wants me to keep a log of how many times a family of 13 visits the throne, let me know.

I’m at the internet cafe in Salelologa, trying to do a variety of things that my dial-up is too slow for, including sending docs to PC in Apia with edits/suggestions.  Sadly, the internet here is down.  They hope to have it back up in 30 minutes.  Explains why I’m sitting here typing this.

Other things I’ll miss from palagi-land, also known as New Zealand:

·       A washer and dryer in the bathroom.  I’m almost caught up with my laundry, having done 2 buckets every morning this week.  Only 1 bucket to go.  Unfortunately a big storm moved in and this morning’s clothes are hanging in the rain.  If the sun comes out later, that’s a good thing since they get a second rinse.  If it lasts for the predicted 48 hours, they’ll get moldy and have to be rewashed, if I leave them outside.  If I bring them in, I’ll get slapped in the head with damp underwear every time I move from my kitchen to my bed.  My bed, btw, is the only place I have to sit in my house.  Unless you count the toilet and I don’t.   Add couches to the things I miss.

·       Grocery stores.  In Auckland, near the fish market is the nicest grocery store I’ve ever seen.  It’s part of the New World chain and is large, clean, bright and filled with stuff I either can’t buy here or is too expensive to buy here.  Poor Donna was a great sport as I spent over an hour there, strolling up and down each aisle, looking at stuff I wished I had room in my luggage for.

There was cheese, breads and pastries, meat, fruit, vegetables and tons of prepared foods.  There was a huge bin of live, enormous mussels, dirt cheap and begging to be taken home.  There was fresh shrimp, which we can’t get in Samoa. 

Can we talk about the fish market?  It’s a retail operation and one store has lots of prepared foods.  I bought marinated mussels for a song along with a prawn salad that was so worth every penny.

Donna  was a sport in cheerfully going with me to multiple stores but doesn’t get why I take such pleasure out of visiting grocery stores or luxury homes, lusting after stuff I can’t have.  I just like knowing they’re out there and who knows...someday.  I doubt if George Clooney is going to be asking me out any time soon, but I like looking at him, too.

·       Restaurants!  Fast food, elegant spots with great views, greasy dives, I love them all.  Food courts in Auckland are very different than in the USA.  They feature lots of Asian and middle-eastern cuisine.  Sushi, kimchee/bulgogi, kebabs, pizza...the list goes on.  Pretty much everything but fried chicken and burgers.  It worked for us, though, since one food court met my desire for diversity in my dining and there was a Burger King next door for Donna.

I like knowing that if I don’t feel like cooking I can grab something on the street.  Or, enjoy a relaxing venue with white tablecloths and someone serving me delicious cuisine that involves stuff like pate and sauces I’ve never attempted at home. 

I like being able to buy a cookie, hot from the oven and crispy sweet, then head next door for a cappuccino to go with it.  Let’s face it, I like a lot of food.  I enjoy variety in food and I like it convenient. 

·       MacDonalds and Subway.  I had my first taste of a Big Mac in Rotorua, 14 months after the last taste.  I had a moment and needed a cigarette after.  I’d forgotten how tasty it can be.  I had the same reaction to Subway.  For three years I worked off and on in a building that had a Subway in the lobby.  After years of subs for lunch almost every day I swore I would never eat at Subway again.  I take it back. I ate there 3 times in 2 weeks.  Much like I’ll probably be craving ramen when I get home although I’ve eaten enough for a lifetime.

·       Internet access.  Auckland has internet cafes in every block and they are very inexpensive.  About 1/5^th the cost I pay here.  Plus, faster and more reliable.  And I don’t have to take a bus 45 min. each way to use it.  Let’s be honest, sitting on my couch in my FL home with my laptop inches away at every moment, constantly connected to WIFI spoiled me.

·       Crisp sheets.  My sheets tend to always slightly damp.  When I slide in at night I stick to them.  Sheets in palagi land were crisp and made a lovely rustling sound when I moved.  Before I left home, I changed the sheets on my bed every night for a week so that I could savor that feeling of sliding in between crisp, fragrant sheets.  I miss that.

·       Driving.  I love the freedom that having a car brings.  I can be on my own schedule, going where I want to go without having to hoof it a mile to catch a bus or get to my final destination.  I discovered I also just miss driving, with no destination in mind.

·       Anonymity.   Ask someone in my village if they know who I am and chances are excellent that they will say yes.  People around the island know who I am.  The ones who don’t know me still say hello and seem interested in watching what I’m doing, wearing, eating, etc.  I’m different here.  In palagi land, I’m just one of the crowd.  It’s a city with lots of people and lots going on.  What I’m doing is of no interest to anyone.  I miss that anonymity although I’m sure I’ll miss being a minor celebrity after some time back in the States.

·       A remote control.  Cable tv, a couch and a remote control.  What could be better?  A room with all that, air con and no mosquitos or other critters.  I miss the Discovery Channel and Food Network.  I miss being a couch potato.

·       Hot showers.  When it’s hot outside and the water is tepid from being in the pipe in the sun, cold showers are no biggie.  Even when the water is really cold, like this morning after a couple days of rain, they work and I get clean.  But it’s not the same as luxuriating in a hot shower which is as much about mental health and relaxation as getting clean.

Stuff I've Seen and Heard

“I think New Zealand is the most beautiful part of Australia.” 

Overheard when an ignorant American tourist was visiting Bay of Islands.  FYI, New Zealand is an independent country and is actually a few hours by plane from Australia.

“Your skin looks like a toasted marshmallow.  I like it.” 

Said by the 13 year old son of a friend.  We’d been comparing tans/skin color.  He was referring to my forearms.  Had he seen my thighs he might have described them as “dead fish belly white.”

“Moron”

A 1 foot high sticker seen in the back window of a car.  The sticker just below it said “Samoa”.  I wish more Americans would advertise their driving skills in this way.  Actually, tattoos of “Moron” would also help in the dating process.

“We were so happy you were gone!”

The welcome home message from my favorite host brother.  That’s Samoan humor for you.

“You got fat in Samoa.”

Another comment when I arrived home from my host brother.  Sadly, he wasn’t joking about that.  I walked miles in New Zealand but also ate everything not nailed down.

“I’d rather die than be on a cruise ship filled with Americans.”

Reply from a Kiwi when I asked if she’d been on a Caribbean cruise.  We have a reputation in New Zealand, as well as the rest of the world that I’ve visited, of being loud, aggressive and rude, with spoiled children.  I was very happy when I saw a few examples of rude, aggressive behavior on my vacation that it was not Americans doing it.

“Swimming Togs to Let”

On a sign in the plush spa/mineral baths in Rotorua.  Why is it that I was fine with renting a towel but the thought of wearing a rental swim suit grossed me out?

Zorb!

I’ve loved rolling down hills since I was a kid.  I’ve rolled down sand dunes and grass covered slopes.  I’ve rolled down icy hills.  I’ve rolled down a hill with a cast from my toes to my hip.  I’ve rolled down a hill after dinner at a fancy executive retreat resort.  The fun of rolling sometimes overtakes my sense of decorum and common sense.

I’m no dare-devil but rolling just seems so natural.  It gives me a wonderful sense of freedom.  Gravity is in control, but not in a scary way, like leaping out of a perfectly good plane or jumping off a bridge when you have no intention of committing suicide.  It’s just belly-laughing fun. 

When I heard about Zorb I knew I had to try it.  Unfortunately, at that time Zorb was only in the north island of New Zealand and I was unwilling to fly 20 hours and pay thousands of dollars when I had hills in my own back yard.  Finding out that Zorb was less than an hour from where I was spending Christmas was perfect.

A Zorb is a giant rubber ball.  There’s a hole in one side about 16 inches in diameter.  The hole is connected to a rubber tube which is about 2 feet long.  It leads to an inner chamber.  That’s where you ride.  The air space between the inner chamber and the outer ball provides cushioning from the ground as you roll and bounce down the hill.  That’s for all the skinny kids who aren’t as well prepared as I am, since I have lots of my own natural cushioning.

There are two kinds of Zorbs.  One has water and one doesn’t.  In the dry Zorb, you’re strapped securely into the inner chamber and then pushed down the hill.  You go head over tea kettle all the way.  I’m guessing that sometimes dry Zorbs become wet Zorbs when the staff has to hose them out after a Zorbonaut  (I kid you not, that’s what they call riders) urks during their ride.

Wet Zorb has water in the inner chamber.  The weight of the water keeps the Zorb somewhat stable so you slosh around a lot but don’t actually go upside down.  I wasn’t anxious to get wet on a chilly summer day in New Zealand, but better water than my breakfast.

My two new young friends and I rode up the hill in the back of a 4 X 4.  Given the way the young employee drove up that hill, I believe it was the most dangerous part of the adventure. 

We waited on a platform at the top of the hill while two employees positioned a ball, which had come up on a huge conveyor belt.  Clever, those Zorb people.  I watched as a young boy entered the partially water filled chamber and was rolled down a curvy path, with lots of zigzags and berms on both sides to keep you heading toward the landing pad.

Next, my 10 year old friend was ready to go.  But the next ball was “special”.  The inner chamber was made of deep purple, rather than clear, rubber.  As if rolling down a big ass hill in a rubber ball wasn’t enough, they wanted to add the extra thrill of not being able to see where you’re going.

The 10 year old and his 13 year old sister didn’t want to go in the “special” Zorb.  I really didn’t either, but seemed like a good time to act like an adult and suck it up.  I stepped on the platform next to the ball and the young employee said “Just step back five feet then run and dive into the hole.”

I had to laugh.  Yes, I’d just seen a 12 pound kid run and fly head first into the tube and on into the inner chamber, but really, had she not looked at me?  Run and dive headfirst into a hole that was about chest level?  She might as well have suggested that I sprout wings and fly down the hill on my own power.

Even as I was mentally measuring the relative widths of the hole and my ass,  I stepped back and went for it.  I bounced off.  The employee called over another young female employee and the two of them tried holding the ball so the hole was a bit lower.  I tried again.  Umph.  No success.

I decided that it was less the size of my bum than the fact that I wasn’t fully committing to the dive.  I stepped back.  Deep breath.  Ran and went airborne.  And bounced back onto the platform.

I was not about to let my life’s dream be foiled by one fat ass.  I suggested that I wiggle into the hole and through the tube.  The employees assured me that that did not work.  I was determined.

I put both arms in and tried to grab the far end of the tube, to help pull myself through.  Luckily, there are no photos of that.   At the same time, the two employees, who were understandably anxious to get me off their platform, one way or another, each grabbed my butt and pushed.  I landed in the inner chamber on my head into a puddle of warm water.  Success!

As the girl was zipping up the opening I asked if I should be sitting in any certain way.   She just laughed and said “No.”  She gave the ball a push to send me on my way.  I think she may have pushed with a bit more vigor than for others as payback for my having taken so long, but that could just be paranoia.

The first push sent me sideways, parallel to the hill and into a berm.  I bounced off and started sloshing/rolling downhill.  I was screaming and laughing with an equal combination of glee and terror.  That’s when I learned a valuable lesson about wet Zorbing.  When water is splashing over your head and all around you, keep your mouth shut.  For a second there I was too busy trying not to drown to even notice that I was rolling and bouncing down a hill.

The ride lasted about 2 minutes.  I rolled, I bounced and caught air a couple of times.  I bounced sideways off berms.  I had zero control over my body or trajectory.  I had a blast.

Stopping was easy.  Although I rolled past the “official” stopping place, two guys got in front of the ball and used their bodies to slow my roll.  One unzipped the opening and without warning, they tipped the ball down and I unceremoniously gushed out, along with all the warm water.  Yes, I felt reborn.

Zorb is awesome and since there’s now a Zorb in the USA, you don’t have to wait for a trip to New Zealand. 

BTW, I went back to Zorb again when Donna and I went back to Rotorua.  I was ready to go, waiting for the ride to the top when I saw a kid getting out of a ball, shivering.  I asked if they’d used hot or cold water.  Through blue lips, he said “Cold.”  I got a refund. 

Vacation!

I had a fabulous time on my vacation.  It was more than I hoped for.  The only sad news is that I lost my camera on the final day.  I think I know where I left it and am hoping to get it back.  The good news is that Donna took lots of photos, but since she wasn’t with me at Christmas when I visited the dairy farm I’ll just have memories, unless I can locate the camera.  You’ll just have to imagine a lush, green place with lots of cows and the friendliest people I’ve ever met.  Honestly, Kiwi’s make Canadians look surly.

The trip started on the oldest, smallest ferry.  Luckily, a woman from my village was heading to Apia and let me sit on her rolled up sleeping mat.  That boat has no seats and no overhead protection from sun/rain.  I looked a mess by the time I got to the airport but didn’t care.  I was on vacation!

December 23, 2011 –  Flew with my BFF Chelsea who was going to meet her mom in Auckland.  Sadly, her mom’s flight was delayed out of Jersey and she missed her connecting flights so was delayed a day.  I was met at the airport by Lisa, a Kiwi I met when she and her husband Wayne visited my village.  They took me to their house to spend Christmas.

December 24 –  Breakfast was granola.  I’ve never been a milk drinker.  I’m not allergic to it, I just don’t care for it.  Been that way since I was a baby and refused to drink milk.  I discovered though, that if the milk is fresh from the cow and has all the luscious cream/fat and isn’t homogenized, that I like milk.  Granola is too expensive for me to buy on the island, so the fresh whole milk and excellent granola were a treat.

Lisa and her two youngest kids and I headed for Rotorua, less than an hour away.  We land luged.  We wet Zorbed.  We ate at MacDonalds.  The weather was cool and perfect.  Later, we stopped at a lake where the rest of the family was boating.  Since it was freezing (by Samoan standards) and I had no “swimming togs”, I just enjoyed the boat ride while the kids knee-boarded.

On our way home Lisa and I stopped at the grocery store.  She had to drag me out, since guests were expected for dinner and I was so busy ogling the fresh produce, cheese, meat, pastries, chocolate, etc. that I didn’t realize how long we’d been there.

That evening we had a barbeque with friends/neighbors who were delightful.  I ate my body weight in grilled green lip mussels to say nothing of the steak and salad.

L & W’s youngest, an adorable and precocious boy, is a big fan of Santa.  Before bed he left a letter for Santa along with cookies and a beer.   Clearly Santa is my kind of guy.   He also put out feed for the reindeer.  I slept like a log under blankets (!) in the very comfortable room that the oldest daughter gave up for me to use.

December 25 – Seems Christmas morning is the same in NZ as the States.  Excited kids, presents and everyone in their pajamas.  The only difference was that Wayne was up at 4:30 a.m. to milk the cows.  There was a letter to the family (and me!) from Santa, who was very grateful for the treats he’d received.  Lisa and I had agreed not to exchange gifts but Santa left me some lovely soap and body butter made with Manuka honey, which is very popular in NZ.  Lisa broached the “no gifts” agreement and gave me a great Tokeroa t-shirt.

After a leisurely morning, we headed to a neighbor’s house for their annual brunch for the neighboring farmers.  It was mostly desserts, along with more mussels.  The food was fabulous and the people amazingly welcoming and friendly.  The house is set on a hill and had stunning 360 degree views of the surrounding area. 

After brunch (which lasted to mid-afternoon), Wayne invited me to help him milk the cows.  That’s been on my bucket list since I was a kid.  I know, for most people it’s to see the Eiffel tower or something a bit more glamorous.  My first book, which I received when I was 4 and still have, was a story about a young girl who lived next door to an old man who had a cow.  She went to his barn every day to watch him milk the cow.  He’d squirt some milk toward the cat, who’d stand on his hind paws to catch the milk in his mouth.  Since reading that book, I’ve wanted to milk a cow.  I came home covered in cow poop and very happy.  BTW, I learned that one must be attentive when milking.  Some of the bulls follow the cows into the milking shed.  It is not good to reach between his back legs to grab a “teat” to attach the milking suction cup. 

Later, Lisa and I relaxed on the patio as the kids and more daring adults tested out the paint ball guns that Santa had brought.  The day ended with a delicious late dinner with the neighbors who’d come the night before and hosted the brunch.  It was one of the best Christmases I’ve ever had.  I felt welcomed and like part of the neighborhood.  I was beginning to plan ways to barricade myself in “my” bedroom so I wouldn’t have to leave.

December 26 – Boxing Day.  After a relaxed breakfast, Lisa and I headed to her school.  We took a tour through the neighborhoods where her kids live.  Many are Maori and Cook Islanders, along with a few Samoans.  Lisa is clearly passionate about teaching and children.  She generously shared a variety of teaching materials with me to help in my school.

I wanted to do some shopping on my trip to replace the t-shirts/skirts that I’ve literally worn out.  It’s not good when the Pisi Koa is the worst dressed in the village.  Lisa took me to a great store called The Warehouse.  It’s sort of a cross between Target and Walmart.

I found a couple of skirts, two t-shirts and two pairs of board shorts – all on sale!   The board shorts I wear under a lavalava, with a t-shirt, for everyday wear and use them when I go swimming.  I also picked up 2 pairs of shoes.  Because I have funky toes it’s hard to buy shoes in the best of circumstances, so I was pleased to find some sandals that were both cheap and easy to get on my hooves.

I found a bunch of materials for school.  Activity books, mostly.  I can copy the pages for the kids and leave the books behind for teachers to use when I’m gone.  Bonus – they had a sale on chocolates, so I picked up some HUGE bars for my family and neighbors, along with a large boxed assortment for the teachers.  In one trip to the Warehouse, I was able to buy everything I hoped to.  Score!

Late afternoon, Lisa took me to the bus stop, along with a package of the cookies and goodies she’d made for Christmas.  For $59, I took a very comfortable four hour bus ride to Auckland where I checked into Bianco Off Queen.  Bianco is serviced apartments and I had a one bedroom with a fully equipped kitchen and a washer/dryer in the bathroom.  Lovely.

December 27 – December 31.  I did nothing.  It was great.  You won’t be getting detailed entries on these days because you would be bored to death.  I did leave the apartment occasionally.  I got my annual PC required dental check-up, got a haircut and wandered around.  I bought food to bring back and cook.  Steak and baked potatoes with broccoli for example.  Along with a nice red wine. 

Mostly, I demonstrated my superior skills as a couch potato.  I lounged.  I napped.  I reveled in the cool outside air and sometimes used the air con.  I caught up on new shows on the Discovery channel.  I was ambidextrous in using the remote.  It was stellar.

To celebrate New Year’s Eve, I drank a glass of wine and watched the crowds in the street from my balcony.  I tried to sleep but had no luck.  I was up all night.

January 1, 2012 -   I left for the Auckland airport at 3:45 a.m.  Donna’s flight was arriving early, at 4:40 and I wanted to make sure I was there when she walked out of immigration after a 20 hour trip.  I was afraid I’d blubber when I saw her but was just too tired.  I was happy to see her but just wanted to get back to the apartment.

We ate, napped and talked for the day.  We spent a lot of time looking at brochures and trying to decide everything we wanted to do.

January 2 – Walking, shopping and eating in Auckland.  I’d been told not to bother spending any time there, that it was a pit with nothing to do.  I disagree.  It’s a lovely city with great inexpensive bus service, tons of ethnic (mostly Asian and Middle Eastern) restaurants, theatres and plenty of stores to take your money.

January 3-4 – We hopped on one of the many buses that go from city to city and headed for the Bay of Islands.  Scenery along the way was spectacular and the bus was full but comfortable.  We spent the night in Bay of Islands and really enjoyed a relaxing time.  We also met a charming Kiwi couple whom I hope to visit my next trip there.  They’re planning to visit Savaii before I leave as well.  We spent the night on an overnight cruise in the Bay.  When we got off, we went on a helicopter tour of the Bay.  Fabulous!  I had nachos for lunch.  Does the world not know that nachos involves a lot of cheese??

January 5 – Another day of strolling around Auckland.  We found two Chinese massage providers at the Westfield Mall downtown.  Inexpensive and awesome.  We visited them several times. 

January 6 - 7 – Another road trip.  This time we took the bus to Rotorua.  We stayed at a really great hotel – the Bella Vista.  It’s a chain, in the same price range as a Red Roof Inn or Motel Six but so much nicer.  Great location, really nice furnishings and full set of dishes, microwave and fridge.  Plus, the owners were the nicest folks and gave us lots of advice on where to go and what to see.  We soaked in a mineral bath, took a walk through a city park filled with bubbling mud and steaming water, visited a Maori “theme park” and ate. 

January 8 – Our flight was scheduled for 8 p.m. so we checked out of Bianco Off Queen and stored our luggage.  We went to Kelly Tarlton’s Underwater World in the pouring rain.  It was expensive and about the size of a gift shop at Sea World and about as much fun.  I’m glad we went because I always would have thought I missed something great, but it was small and “eh”.  Not awful but certainly not great.  The best part was the free transport from downtown.  You ride in a van that’s been modified to make it look like you’re riding inside a Great White shark.  Let me clarify…the outside of the van looks like you’re in a shark.  The inside does not.  That would be disgusting.

We headed to the airport at 5:30 p.m.  Checked in with no problem.  The counter person told me boarding would be at 11:35 p.m.  I said “For an 8:00 p.m. flight?”  “Oh, let me check.  Yes, the flight is delayed until just after midnight due to a mechanical problem.  The plane is on the ground here and they’re working on it.”  Later, after we noticed the departure board had been updated and our flight would now be leaving five hours late, we were told the problem was weather and the plane was in Apia.

Long story, but we arrived in Samoa after 7 a.m. after another sleepless night.  Rather than staying at the hotel near the airport that I’d booked (and paid for), we just caught the 8:00 a.m. ferry to Savaii.  It was overcast, drizzly and gray.  Precisely the weather we’d left in Auckland except it was hot and humid here.

January 9 – We picked up our rental car with no problem.  Donna was very surprised that they only take cash, no checks and no credit cards.  I knew that, so had stocked up on tala.  We checked in at the Savaiian hotel which is in a village near mine.  Nice place with great owners.  We hung out and went to my house so Donna could meet my family and see the place.  Plus, I had chocolate to give away.

Only my host brother and sister were home when I arrived.  They both greeted me warmly.  “You got fat in New Zealand!” was my brother’s greeting.  Home sweet home.  Sadly, he was correct. 

January 10 - 12 – Road trip!  What a treat to have a car here.  No waiting for the bus.  The ability to go somewhere after the buses stop running at 6 p.m.  Sweet freedom.  We headed toward Asau, on the north west part of Savaii.  We stopped at the sea turtles and the lava fields.  I think Donna was pleasantly surprised with both.

We checked in to our “over the water” bungalows at Vai Moana in Asau.  I love the place.  Nice people, some of the best food on the island and I love falling asleep to the waves lapping under my fale.  Donna was expecting a resort – she got no air con, cold water showers and waves that kept her awake all night.  She was even lucky enough to have several hermit crabs in her room.

We stopped at the blow holes on our way home and enjoyed a relaxing drive.  We checked back in to the Savaiian, then headed to my village for lunch and a chance to see more people.  Unfortunately, it was pouring rain so we didn’t do the evening stroll I’d hoped for.  We would have seen many more people that way.  But, we stopped at the home of one of my favorite teachers and Donna got to experience a real Samoan greeting, complete with hug and kiss.

Jan. 13 – Since Donna’s flight was scheduled for the wee hours of Jan. 14, we headed back to Upolu on the 10 a.m. ferry.  We checked in at the Airport Lodge then headed to the Aggie Grey’s resort for lunch.  We had the outdoor dining room and umpteen staff to ourselves, along with a stellar view.  After a very long lunch, we headed back to the hotel where we changed rooms for the third time (first room had no air con, second room did but it didn’t seem to work and they gave us a complimentary upgrade to a very nice room) and chilled.

I hate drawn out goodbyes.  Actually, I don’t like goodbyes at all.  I put Donna in a cab for the short ride to the airport and went back to bed, after shedding a few tears.

Jan. 14 – After a few more tears – both because I hated to see my buddy leave and hated to see vacation come to an end, I left the hotel for the wharf.  Hoped the pasi o va’a, which is the bus that goes between Apia and the wharf.  It was hot, it was crowded and it was a reminder that I wasn’t living the palagi life any more.  I stopped by the grocery store for supplies then headed to the house where my friends Denise and Otis were staying.  Her final day as an employee of Peace Corps was the day before and I was going to see them for the last time.  Another goodbye.

Jan. 15 – Denise woke up in the wee hours, sick as a dog.  A friend with a car came over and took her to the hospital where she was given medication.  She slept and worked on recovering for the rest of the day while her husband, son, Chelsea and a friend of her son hung out. 

Jan. 16 – Our day started at 4 a.m. when Chelsea and I got up to say goodbye to Denise and her wonderful family.  She was one of my closest friends in Samoa and I’ll really miss her.  I’ll also really miss her smart and funny 13 year old son and her smart, handsome and kind husband. 

After they left for the airport, I cried a bit again, then went back to bed.  Chelsea and I slept for a couple of hours then got up to head home.

The bus ride to the wharf was packed and hot.  The ferry to Savaii was packed and hot.  I splurged and took a cab home.  Denise had given me a ton of magazines to use at school and I just didn’t have it in me to schlep everything on the bus.

I got home to a filthy house.  When you have open windows (no glass, just holes in the wall covered in wire) and leave on a beach, there’s sand.  Everywhere.  And when you live in the tropics there are bugs and spiders and mold.  I spent three hours cleaning so I’d be able to sleep there that night.  I’m allergic to mold and it covered my ceiling and countertop.  I also had rat poop all over the bathroom.  G – thanks for the wonderful soap you sent me for Christmas.  I didn’t get to use it, but the rat must have liked it since he ate the whole damned bar.

I caught up with my family, cleaned, fixed dinner and did laundry.  I also set the rat trap and caught a rat whose breath smelled suspiciously like goat’s milk soap.

It was a great break.  I’m feeling refreshed, renewed and ready for the next term.  It’s hard to believe that there’s only 10 months to go.  I suspect time will fly by.

Photos

Bet you expected to see photos of New Zealand!  Sorry, but technical difficulties.  But here are some old photos to tide you over.


I'm currently in Bay of Islands, New Zealand.  A beautiful place.  An overnight cruise, helicopter tour and new Kiwi friends.  Could it get any better?  This holiday has been amazing and I'll be looking at the possibility of working in New Zealand for a year as one of my "after service" options.  Yes, it's that beautiful and I've had that great a time.  It doesn't hurt that Kiwis are even nicer than Canadians.


Hope you enjoy the photos.

This kid was stylin'.  I was on the bus in Apia heading toward the wharf and home.

Night time in my fale.  I love not having to sleep under a mosquito net in New Zealand.  Sleeping on clean sheets and a real mattress also has it's upside.

She was passing by my front door.  One of the many pigs that hang out around my house.  For some reason, they like to sleep lying against my house.  That's fine with me until they get noisy about 2 a.m.

 

 

Looking forward to seeing the blowholes on Savaii again next week.

Did I tell you about the event at school when a couple of the other volunteers dropped by?  They thought I was kidding about the manhandling I get on a daily basis.  Dave got groped big time.

Fale, sweet fale.  My house in Faga.

"My" beach.  Will be back there next week.