A Saturday in Mandalay

I spent yesterday with two fellow teachers.  I woke up with a cold but that didn't deter me from cleaning my apartment.  The advantage of living in a studio apartment is that it's pretty fast and easy to mop the floors and clean.

The other teachers and I hopped into the air conditioned taxi at 9:45 a.m.  Our first stop was a tea shop for breakfast.  We each had a meal and two of us got take out and the total bill was $3.60.

We spent the next several hours shopping.  First was for lamps.  The brand new teacher was a bit surprised that she had the choice of only two floor lamps, but I assured her that they were the only floor lamps in Mandalay.  They used to have three but I bought one.

Next, we moved on to shop for chairs.  I had two chairs I really liked.  But, I sold them to the new teacher with the plan of replacing one with a similar chair along with a rocking chair.  We stopped at the first store where I quickly purchased and arranged immediate delivery of a chair.  Then we headed a few blocks away to buy the rocking chair.  That's when the fly entered the ointment.  I'd checked out the rockers the week before and was very excited.  They weren't exactly what I'd dreamed of in terms of looks but were comfortable.  And, for only $20, they were perfect.  I sat, I rocked, I was ready to buy.  But then I discovered that there had been a miscommunication.  They weren't $20 but rather $120!  During all of the shopping, our driver served as negotiator and interpreter.

I now owned a single chair rather than the matching pair I'd had previously.  After shopping for a few vegetables at the nearby market, we headed back to the store where I'd bought the single chair.  Bummer, they didn't have another chair to match the one I'd bought.  The new teacher offered to return my original chairs and to take the chair I'd just bought but I told her a deal was a deal.

We went on to a grocery store where we stocked up on basics plus bread at the adjoining bakery.  I bought flour, sugar and other baking essentials along with a king size flat sheet to make a reading fort for my kids at school for less than $25.  Our driver conveniently hovered so he could carry our purchases to the car.

Next we went next door to the food court to but food for take away.  I went for a couple of pieces of rotisserie chicken.  It was expensive, at $1.50, by Myanmar standards.

We drove a couple of miles up the road to find another shop where they sold rattan furniture, hoping to find a foot stool for the new teacher.  We found the store, which didn't have the foot stool but had chairs exactly like the one I'd purchased earlier.  I was able to have matched set again, at a lower price and it would be delivered today. The new teacher was disappointed they didn't have a foot stool but the other teacher said she had one that she didn't really use and was happy to sell.  We were all happy.

Our last destination was my favorite - Style Star - the beauty salon/spa.  We spent two hours being shampooed, blow dried, massaged and pampered.  All for $6.50.  They assigned my favorite employee to me and she was amazing. I gave her a 500K ($.50) tip.  Tipping is not usual here.  Last week, she tried to give it back. This week she was happy to accept it.  She massaged me from head to foot for two hours and thought a 50 cent tip was huge.

On our short drive back to the school we talked about living in Mandalay.  The new teacher expected this to be a "hardship post". It is not.  We have all the creature comforts we want.  There are luxuries we couldn't afford in the United States, like two hour massages.  And, the people are so friendly and helpful.  Our taxi driver not only helped with driving, shopping and ordering in the restaurant, he also helped carry our purchases up four flights of stairs.  One of the new school security guards also helped carry my new chairs upstairs.

It was another great day in Mandalay.  Now I hope I can get rid of this cold before I greet the kids on Monday.

Last Weekend Before School Starts

The last week was busy, trying to get every detail finished before the kids arrive Monday morning.  It did not help that there's no deadline for parents to enroll children.  Three kids signed up for first grade yesterday.  One mother, the day before, spent an hour in the office arguing that her daughter had to be in my class.  I had her last year and all her friends will be in my class this summer.  But, I had more kids than the other teacher so Admin was reluctant.  They sent me an email and of course I agreed to take her.

In addition to getting the classroom and lesson plans ready, there was some socializing.  I wore the traditional longyis the last two days.  They were gifts from the cleaning ladies who attended my ESL class this summer.  The ladies were very happy that I wore them and I got many compliments from local staff.  Longyi skirts are exactly the same as the puletasi wrap-around, floor length skirts that I wore in Samoa.  Much cooler than slacks.

One of the cleaning ladies brought her small photo album to show me.  A few photos of her family and several pictures of her wedding and a few photos of her and me.  I was touched that she wanted to share and added me to her album.

Later in the day one of the local staff gave me an impromptu hug and said "I love you!".  The feeling is mutual.  These people work so hard, in very difficult conditions.  They live with fewer creature comforts than I had in Samoa.  Yet they display genuine smiles and laughter all day.  I may have written about the day a couple of weeks ago when I had a bad day at school.  No big deal, just a frustrating day.  As I was whining to myself, leaving my air-conditioned classroom to walk 2 minutes to my air conditioned apartment, I glanced over at the women carrying bricks on their heads at our construction site.  They'd been doing that steadily for eight hours, in the sun and 100+ degree temps.  I have nothing to complain about.

I'm off now for a day of shopping and luxury. We'll start with breakfast at the tea shop.  Then shopping.   I sold my two wonderful chairs to another teacher.  I'm going to replace them with one just like them plus one that is similar but a rocker.  I also need to buy a sheet to make a "reading fort" in the classroom.  Then, my Saturday favorite time - a couple of hours at the salon getting a massage, shampoo and blow dry.  $6.50 of luxury.

Life is good in Mandalay.

More Food and Shopping in Bangkok

It's Saturday afternoon and I'm pooped.  It was a great day - started with a long Skype call with an old friend, followed by a few hours of shopping and sweating at Chatachuk Market.  Happily, I found both the shoes and the decorative hand-made paper I was looking for.

Before heading back to my room for another shower and a rest, I stopped in at Terminal 21.  I picked up a few more groceries and then headed to Sunrise Tacos to pick up my last Mexican meal this trip.

On this trip I ate Mexican food (twice), Italian food, Arabic food and seafood (twice).  Other than sticky rice and mango, no Thai food.  Just too little time.

Here are some photos from the weekend.

MBK Mall.  Mandalay has a very long way to go to offer a comparable shopping/dining experience.

My lunch.

Food court at MBK where I had the shrimp.

It was a long walk down a rather dingy hall to the toilets.

But once there they were clean and modern.  This is the toilet's control panel.

Excellent pizza from a Japanese restaurant at Terminal 21.

Durian cream puffs.  Wrong.  Just wrong.

Peaceful park outside Chatachuk Market.

Arabic lavash sandwich for lunch at the market with a Coke Light.

The market was very hot and very crowded.  No sign of the coup.  This local tv news crew were filming the place where I'd just bought lunch.

A More Cheerful Bangkok Update

No, this isn't related to the current coup.  I just posted a rant about things I found annoying yesterday.  I thought it would only be fair to list the things that made me smile yesterday.

• As I was standing on the clean, cool BTS train yesterday on my way to the MBK mall, a young Thai man, replete with piercings and tattoos, touched my arm to get my attention.  He offered me his seat.  I declined but thanked him for the offer.  His parents should be proud of his good manners.
  
• MBK mall smells like food.  It is wonderful.  Every floor has restaurants and there's a large, outstanding food court on the fifth floor.  The best place for delicious smells is on the 4th floor, 4B to be precise.  A row of women was busy making Thai tacos.  Small crepes filled with egg, whipped cream and other stuff.  You can shop for cell phones and DVDs while smelling sweetness.
  
• BTS, malls, restaurants are all cold.  They keep the air conditioning on full blast.  That is a beautiful thing when it is so hot and humid outside.
  
• Terminal 21 mall was nice enough to have Sweet City while I'm here.  There are over a dozen businesses who specialize in desserts feature their goodies throughout the mall.  More good smells.
  
• A Japanese restaurant in Terminal 21 makes delicious pizza.  I came out of the theatre and wanted to get something for dinner and didn't want to walk far, since I was carrying a backpack full of groceries.  I was leery of the idea of Japanese pizza but was pleasantly surprised.  I don't know the name but it's located on the 4th floor of Terminal 21.  I don't think there are too many Japanese restaurants offering pizza there.
  
• I love that you can get a cheap massage pretty much anywhere.  After a few hours of walking around MBK mall, I was happy to pay the high (for Bangkok) price of $12 for an hour massage.  Mostly legs and feet with a bit of shoulder, neck and head tossed in.  Comfortable chair, relaxing lighting and music.  Heaven in a mall.
  
• I like that since I'm about a foot taller than most people here, even in crowds I can see where I'm going.
  
• I love that even if a person here doesn't speak English (and most in the tourist speak at least a bit) they try to help.  I had a completely non-verbal conversation with a man yesterday.  It involved much smiling, nodding and "y'ing" - put hands palm together and bowing your head to show respect.  It was also fun.
  
• I love meeting new people from around the world.  I talked to one guy from the Bahamas.  Another from Germany.  A couple from England who now live in Australia.  It is not lonely to travel alone.
  
• I love that Chatuchuk market is waiting for me.  The weekend market is open and I'm anxious to get there and hopefully find some shoes, before it gets too hot.
  
• I love that I can Skype in Bangkok.
  

Ok, time to stop typing and head to the market to find more things to love.

Bangkok Update

It's Saturday morning, May 24, 2014.  I spent 12 hours out and about yesterday in Bangkok.  I saw no military, trains are running as usual and the malls and streets are crowded with people going about their daily business.

Overall I had a great day.  Yes, I'm disappointed in no television.  I have limited television in Myanmar so access to more channels (not in Hindi) is a perk of coming to Bangkok.   My choices are CNN, BBC or staring at the military emblems on all Thai stations.  I'm not sure how my watching Top Chef Texas could endanger the temporary government.  That's a small issue though, since everything else seems to be running smoothly.

Having said that, I tend to head out early and return early in the evening. The curfew has not cramped my style.  That can't be said for tourists (and locals, trying to make a living) on the many businesses which operate at night.  The large mall near my hotel was closing at 8:00 p.m. instead of 10:00 p.m. to allow people time to clean up and get home before curfew started.  Tourists who come for the nightlife at places like Soi Cowboy are screwed.  Which is kind of funny when you think about why they go to places like Soi Cowboy in the first place.

I'm now going to address things that annoy me that have absolutely nothing to do with the current coup.  Some of the issues aren't even specific only to Bangkok.  Brace yourself, here's my cranky rant:

• Cell phones.  I'm enjoying living in a country where cell phones and SIM cards are so expensive that they're not used by every resident.  In Bangkok, like every city in the USA, people have and use their cell phones.  Constantly.  Why should I care?  Because they use them in public while moving.  If you are walking in a mall, street or public transport station, be prepared for me to yell "BOO!" in your face when you come within 1 foot of me and are totally aware of anyone near you.  If you happen to be so engrossed in your texting that you stop directly in front of the entrance to an escalator, I'm going to gently move you out of the way.  Watching people text and walk through the BTS station was like watching human bumper cars.  People bouncing off each other as they texted while ignoring their surroundings.
  
• Motorcycles on sidewalks.  I was almost run over when I started to walk from the inside of a sidewalk to the curb - by a motorcycle coming up behind me.  I get that Bangkok traffic is bad but stay the hell off the sidewalks!
  
• No big shoes.  I'm 5'10".  I wear size 10 shoes.  I'm significantly larger than most Asians, including Thai people.  I have foot issues which makes it challenging to find shoes even in the US.  In Bangkok, pretty much impossible.  The irony, because many people wear "slipper" or sandals here, there are lots of styles of shoes that would be perfect.  They just don't have them in my size.  I went to more than 20 shoe stores yesterday in Bangkok.  I came home with only the shoes I went in with.  I'm hoping for better luck at Chatachuk market today, where I bought my current shoes.  I plan to buy them out if they have them in my size.
  
• Subway behavior.  This is something else that happens worldwide and in many ways, Bangkok is better than many places.  Having said that, why do people get on a train and immediately park themselves in front of the door instead of moving toward the center of the car?  Do they not realize there are twenty people behind them trying to get on?  And what's up with pushing onto the train as soon as the door opens instead of waiting for people to get off?  BTS, the Bangkok Skytrain, which is fabulous, has painted arrows to show where to stand to get on the train - to the side, allowing passengers to disembark first.  Yesterday, one family who I'm guessing were Chinese tourists, parked directly in front of where the door would open.  About ten others, including me, were standing in the designated spots to the side.  A guard nicely asked them to move.  Three times.  They didn't.  And when the trains arrived and the doors opened they shoved people trying to get off out of the way.
  

Ok, those are my pet peeves.  After 12 hours out and about in Bangkok, that's a pretty small list.  Thanks for letting me vent.  I hope if you're reading this on your cell phone, you don't run into someone.

What Coup?

Ok, back to our regular programming.  No new news on the coup, so I'll just report on my first day in Bangkok yesterday.

First, let me say I love visa runs.  Myanmar requires that I leave the country every 70 days.  Then I can return and get a new visa.  That gets them an additional $50 visa fee every 70 days.  Works for them and works for me, since I get free airfare (furnished by AIS) to Bangkok.

Arriving in Bangkok is easy.  There's a direct, two hour flight from Mandalay to Don Mueang airport.  We arrived 30 minutes early at 2:35 p.m.  The plane parked a few feet from a jetway but as usual, we didn't use it.  Instead, we climbed down stairs and onto a bus.  We drove a few minutes and entered the terminal where we climbed a flight of stairs then trekked to immigration.  It only took a few minutes before I was collecting my luggage, exchanging money and walking through customs.  Less than 30 minutes after touching down, I walked out and snagged a taxi.

Traffic on the freeways was light.  I was watching for any signs of military rule.  I did see a group of soldiers on the other side of the freeway.  Five or six guys in uniform were standing near a military vehicle.  I think they had a flat tire.

Mark Owen, I thought of you while waiting to exit on Sukhumvit.

My room at Citypoint hotel.  Less  than $45 a night and lovely.

I'm not a big fan of the frosted glass windows that serve as bathroom walls but since I'm staying alone it's no issue.

The room is fairly small but has a large, comfortable bed.  It also has a mini-fridge and safe.

At the exit ramp to Sukhumvit we sat in traffic.  Then we continued to creep forward and wait...for about 45 minutes.  With no traffic it would have taken 5-10 minutes.  When we got close to the hotel I got out and walked.  It was faster.

When I checked in to the hotel, they recognized me.  It's the hotel where I stayed and had to check out to go to the hospital.  They were helpful then and now.  And, coincidentally put me in the same room.

I immediately turned on the air conditioning, television and internet, in that order.  I have television now but not as many channels.  I was very excited about having a high speed internet connection.  Lack of consistent internet is one of the greatest frustrations in Myanmar.  And when it's working, it's slow.

After enjoying some time with my room's amenities, I headed out.  First stop, bottom floor of Terminal 21.  I was happy to see a photo shop and got prints of my cleaning ladies/ESL students for them.  Next, Gourmet Market.

The market is much like being at a Whole Foods, just with more Asian products.  I eyed heads of lettuce and the salad bar.  But, I've been dreaming of tacos as my first meal.  What to do?  I continued shopping and picked up $60 (which filled two bags) of items I can't get in Mandalay.  Cocoa, rosemary, black olives, salad dressings, taco seasoning.

Next, upstairs to Sunrise Tacos.  I explained to the waitress that I just wanted to get something to go.  She remembered me and that I was living in Myanmar.  What a memory - this is a busy restaurant and I haven't been there for months.  Of course, every time I make a visa run I do have several meals there.

We chatted while my food was being prepared.  The owners (an American man and Thai woman) asked for my contact information.  Seems they are considering opening one of their restaurants in Myanmar and they're planning a visit soon to check it out.  Some of the staff at the restaurant are Myanmar.

I'm writing this as if its no big deal.  Inside, I'm doing a happy dance.  A good Mexican restaurant in Mandalay?  I will abandon my beloved Bistro Mandalay in a heartbeat.  My pay check will be dedicated to tacos and margaritas.  Que bueno!

My meal, by the way, was delicious.  Three crispy tacos with fresh salsa and sour cream and a salad.  Perfect.

My over-stuffed tacos and side salad.  Fresh and delicious.

It's 7:30 a.m. now on Friday.  I'm planning a day of massage and shopping.  And sweating, since even at 5:00 a.m. when I walked outside it was already humid and warm.  It will be a day of tough decisions.  Do I enjoy the honey-glazed duck at the nearby Chinese restaurant or do I go back to Sunrise Tacos?

Being in Bangkok During a Coup

Looking up Asoke (toward the National Convention Center) from near Sukhumvit.

Sukhumvit and Asoke at 5:05 a.m.

Light traffic at Asoke and Sukhumvit at 5:05 a.m.

Front page of the newspaper on May 23, 2014.

It's 5:40 a.m. on Friday, May 23, 2014.  It's quiet in Bangkok.  The military announced it was taking over the government of Thailand yesterday.  

I arrived in Bangkok from Myanmar yesterday about 3:00 p.m.  Traffic on the freeways was light but seemed even heavier than usual on both Sukhumvit and Asoke.  I saw a few soldiers on sidewalks but if I hadn't known differently, I would have assumed they were police doing their normal routines.

After checking in to Citypoint Hotel, near the Asoke BTS station, I went shopping at nearby Terminal 21.  The mall was crowded with shoppers and uniformed school kids.  My focus was on buying grocery items at Gourmet Market that aren't available in Mandalay rather than on the coup.

Leaving the mall at 6:30 p.m. I walked through the typically busy BTS/MRT interchange station at Asoke.  I have never seen it so busy.  It didn't help that people were stopping in their tracks to take cell phone photos of the crowds.  I just kept slowly pushing through the crowd, anxious to get back on the street.

I spent a quiet evening in my hotel.  It was clear there was something happening when the television stations began shutting down.  By 10:00 p.m., when the curfew began, there were only three television stations broadcasting anything but a screen which said "National Peace and Order Maintaining Council" along with symbols of what I assume are the very military branches.  BBC and CNN and a sports station (playing all tennis) are the only stations still broadcasting.  CNN just announced they are committed to stay on the air to let the people of Thailand know what is happening during this critical time.

The streets were eerily quiet during the night, although not deserted.  Nothing like normal traffic levels but I could still hear the sounds of cars, trucks and motorbikes from my hotel room.  

At 5:00 a.m. this morning when the curfew ended, I headed out to see what was happening.  The intersection of Sukhumvit and Asoke, very near my hotel, is one of the busiest in Bangkok.  Clearly, people had ignored the curfew to be out driving, but traffic was significantly lighter than normal.  

I saw no military.  I'm hoping that it will be business as usual today.  I plan to head to MBK to buy shoes and school supplies.  Fingers crossed that the military will follow through on keeping peace and remaining neutral as they try to sort out the political mess.